Cooper's Historic Bar-B-Que Pit in Llano, Texas
A Texas native, Washington Post Food editor Joe Yonan told me that Llano is the home of real 'cue. As the backseat navigator on our road trip, I admittedly pointed us down a roundabout path instead of the more direct I-10W highway, to conveniently wind up in Llano at lunchtime.
Cooper's Old-Time Pit Bar-B-Que is the town's landmark barbecue joint where an outdoor oak grill—the length of an SUV—slow-cooks pork chops, sausage, whole chickens, beef ribs, whole chicken, and of course, brisket. The closest thing I'd ever seen to a cowboy was in front of me in line, pointing to a rack of ribs, which a Cooper's grillmaster then sawed up and plopped onto a red plastic cafeteria-like tray. That's the Cooper's style: no real plates; just meat on tray, then a butcher paper-wrapping job inside once you're ready to pay.
Cooper's decor.
Long wooden tables with benches (family-style sitting here) are stocked with paper towel rolls for greasy fingers, butter spray for corn on the cob and loaves of white bread (basically just Wonder caliber, but somehow more magical here) for sandwich-making. Near the fountain drinks, two bucket-sized pots simmer, one with beans and the other, Cooper's house 'cue sauce, both with ladles ready.
Ladle 'er up.
Yonan was right—this felt like real 'cue. I didn't know what that meant before Cooper's, but now I know: it's the taxidermy on the walls, the focused, essentially talk-free eating styles around the room, the communal sharing of sides (but not of meats), the scent of smoked meats lingering on your hair the next morning.
Vegetarians, look away.
Cooper's Bar-B-Que
505 West Dallas, Llano Texas 78643 (map)
325-247-5713
coopersbbq.com
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7 Comments:
I do love Cooper's. it is so delicious.
intheyearofthepig at 3:11PM on 06/17/08
mmmmmmmm.....
I luuuuuv Coopers.......
nichole at 3:12PM on 06/17/08
I'd trust any of Joe's recommendations, especially for barbecue!
Lydia at 3:55PM on 06/17/08
I've lived here in Central Texas for 10 years and been to Llano 4 or 5 times minimum and have yet to visit Cooper's. I need to get out there.
ronzoni at 10:47PM on 06/17/08
Did you try the cabrito? Mr. dks adores their cabrito!
dksbook at 10:16AM on 06/19/08
You can't call yourself a serious barbecue afficianado if you've been to Texas and not gone to Cooper's.
Sara DowntoEarth at 8:44AM on 06/24/08
Shame on my little brother Joe Yonan for not also mentioning that while you are in Llano, Texas you HAVE to stop at Inman's Kitchen for the world's BEST turkey sausage. By the way, SURELY Joe mentioned that it was his big brother Michael who first introduced him to the sheer joy of Cooper's BBQ - right? I'm obviously not into petty nonsense such as sibling rivalry but Joe needs to publicly acknowledge that I am the family expert on all things related to Texas Chili and Barbecue or I will never cook him another bowl of red at Christmas ever again. dks, you say Cooper's has cabrito? Why the **** didn't Joe tell me? I LOVE cabrito!!!
michaelyonan at 2:22PM on 10/06/08