Dining Advice, Tips, Recommendations, and News
PrintBurnin' Down the House in Chicago, Pakistani Osso Bucco-Style
It seems like every year one of my favorite Pakistani restaurants burns down. Two years ago it was Khan BBQ, my favorite spot to grab green chili slathered charcoal tandoor fired chicken boti. The fire turned what was once a dingy smoky cabbie joint, thick with smoke from poor ventilation, into a relatively elegant peach colored banquet hall with a chandelier that would be at home in the Taj Mahal.
Last year, apparently due to faulty wiring, my other go-to spot, Sabri Nihari, burned down. Unlike Khan BBQ, the new incarnation, a narrow El car-wide corridor of a restaurant outfitted with more mirrors than a ballet studio, is a step down from the old, pure white Liberace-like garishness of the old spot. The owners assured me this was a temporary location, though it’s been open for over a year now, so maybe not.
The namesake nihari was better than ever. One of my favorite dishes in Chicago, nihari is like the Pakistani version of osso bucco. The dish features a thick hunk of bone in cow leg meat braised in a brown gravy replete with fried ghee, tarka chili, and an assortment of herbs, spices and aromatics, including—but not limited to—coriander, garam masala, ginger, and garlic. Legend has it that the stew is so rich, that many Muslims who dine on the dish for lunch end up taking a nap until the afternoon call for prayer.
The Sabri version of the dish features a thick spicy gravy redolent with the perfume and taste of anise. One bite is like inhaling a fennel patch. The centerpoint though is a buttery melt-on-the-tongue mass of pliant beef. It's so good, I almost wonder if the third time will be a charm. I don't really want to find out, 'cause I'd really hate for another favored spot to burn down.
About the author: Michael Nagrant writes for Serious Eats from Chicago, where he also publishes Hungry magazine. Michael never met an organ meat he didn't like. He hopes to meet many more.
Sabri Nihari
Address: 2502 1/2 West Devon Avenue, Chicago, IL 60659 (map)
Phone: 773-465-3272
Website: sabrinihari.com
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4 Comments:
Jebus, that nihari really good. I like food that requires napping afterwards. Anyone know where I can find it in NY/NJ? >__
roboppy at 5:37PM on 05/10/08
Nihari is actually very easy to make at home. You can buy "Shan Nihari" mix if you are a Nihari novice. Buy good quality Nihari beef from any pakistani grocery store with shanks and get to work. It literally cooks on its on own once you brown the meat. You can even make it in a slow cooker for 5-10 hours. The longer the meat cooks, the better. It needs to fall of the bones and melt in the gravy. Serve with Naan. And yes, a nap is a must!
almondjoy at 7:43PM on 05/11/08
Michael,
I am from Pakistan. My mom is an awsome cook and very picky when it comes to restaurants. One place even she likes is Chopal on Devon Avenue. Their Chili Chicken is very good. Pullao, meat and rice cooked together.
Usmania is another for "Matka Ghost".
I hope you will try these places and like them.
almondjoy at 7:49PM on 05/11/08
Thanks, Michael. I live blocks from here but can't believe I've not had this. I'll rectify it soon. And for other Chicagoans, my favorite restaraunt is actually Bahbi's Kitchen on Leavitt a little south of Devon. Mr. Syed and Bahbi are amazing people who produce some amazing dishes made with less ghee than others in the area.
Cinnamon at 1:33PM on 06/17/08