PrintSerious Sandwiches: Johnnie's Combo Beef, Chicago
I wonder if Miamians get bored with the Cuban sandwich or Philadelphians forego the Philly cheesesteak for long periods of time. I know, with so many new restaurants opening each day and so many tasty leads to follow, sometimes I take the local food icons here in Chicago for granted. I even forsake them occasionally. But, with so many fanny pack clad tourists descending on our city in search of salad dogs, deep dish pizza, and the Italian beef, I don’t really think they need me.
Fast forward to last Thursday when I just happened to be driving through Elmwood Park, a suburb adjacent to the Northwest side of Chicago city proper, and I spotted one of my favorite Italian beef stands: Johnnie’s. You know the soup nazi? Well, Johnnie’s proprietors are the beef Nazis. They make you wait in a single file line and if you’re the next person in line in front of the entrance door and you thing about holding it open to suck up some warm beefy air on a cold or rainy day, don’t do it. If you let so much as a minor draft sneak in to the store, you’ll get glares from the employees and customers alike. You also better have your order together when you hit the cash register and it better not include cheese on your beef (which is pretty much an equivalent crime in these parts to putting ketchup on your hot dog), unless, of course, you want to get laughed at.
The Italian beef usually consists of a thick Italian style roll filled with roasted thinly sliced beef that’s been marinated in a bevy of spices like garlic and oregano. My favorite, Al’s original on Taylor, has a hint of nutmeg. Then you get choices: you can get it “dipped”, which means the whole sandwich gets dunked in the roasting gravy or jus before getting wrapped up, or you can get it “dry”, aka no dip. Likewise, you can get it “sweet” or “hot,” which indicates whether you get sweet green peppers or a spicy giardinara—usually consisting of celery, onion, and various peppers—on top. I prefer mine sweet, hot, and dipped.
As I was saying, I spotted Johnnie’s and though it was 2 p.m. and I’d already had a big lunch, I stopped. I don’t get much of a shot at Johnnie’s since it’s about ten miles away from my condo, so you gotta take the beef when you can get it. Though Al’s is my favorite, Johnnie’s is my favorite combo, which means in addition to the beef, they add a fat link of Italian sausage. Johnnie’s link has a nice red pepper spice and a healthy bit of fennel, and, as far as I’m concerned, when joined with Johnnie’s lean, reasonably well spiced beef, makes the best combo around.
Sitting in my car and unwrapping the butcher paper was torture, but that first bite was a reminder that no matter how much Johnnie’s doesn’t need me, I’d forgotten how much I needed Johnnie's.
About the author: Michael Nagrant writes for Serious Eats from Chicago, where he also publishes Hungry magazine. Michael never met an organ meat he didn't like. He hopes to meet many more.
Johnnie's
Address: 7500 W North Avenue, Elmwood Park, IL 60707 (map)
Phone: 708-452-6000
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7 Comments:
I love Italian beefs...But I also love ketchup on a hot dog.
bobbob at 1:38PM on 05/21/08
As an Oak Park native, I never stop missing Johnnies!
meganaw at 2:41PM on 05/21/08
Hot damn, I miss Johnnie's. Our family business used to be a few blocks away and I would get these sandwiches weekly when I worked there growing up.
Another classic fixture of the neighborhood: Russell's. It would nearly kill me, but getting a combo sandwich and a bbq beef sandwich in the same day would be food heaven.
capndesign at 3:37PM on 05/21/08
Hey, everybody knows that the cuban sandwich was invented in Tampa, not Miami! And no, we Tampanians never grow tired of them!
stimpy at 9:18AM on 05/22/08
There is nothing better than a Chicago Italian beef sandwich. I will be heading to Chicago in a few weeks but to the South Suburbs. So, the only place I found a good Italian beef was in Tinley Park. This time I will pick up the sandwiches so I can see what else is on the menu. For now I will take a good beef sandwich with dippin' on the side.
msbooch75 at 11:55AM on 05/23/08
No cheese???? Sigh...
Though I do admit that the well-seasoned beef would probably be very good without it...I'm just the type of person who would make a grilled cheese sandwich and have leftover cheese on the side. =)
akk328 at 2:02PM on 05/27/08
msbooch... for an outstanding Italian Beef in the south suburbs check out Pop's. The original location is at 115th and Kedzie, but there is also on in Palos (127th and Harlem) and one in Orland (143rd and Wolf)
Bryan_G at 10:19AM on 05/31/08