Dining Advice, Tips, Recommendations, and News
PrintNew Orleans' Next Food Dynasty
If you haven't heard of Joel Dondis, just wait, you will. Dondis is quietly (and successfully) building a restaurant empire in New Orleans by creating his own culinary traditions, not to mention opening places like his out-of-the-blue sweet shop on Magazine Street that's becoming a big hit.
I first heard of Dondis when my wife and I were planning our wedding. Being serious eaters, we wanted the best caterer in town, and to us, Joel's Fine Catering was it. That was a few years ago, but I distinctly remember the lamb-chop lollipops on their menu. I'll always wonder how those lollipops would have tasted.
The wedding experienced a little hiccup when Hurricane Katrina blew through and we moved the celebration to our hometown (about 200 miles north in Alexandria, Louisiana). I later learned that immediately following the storm, Dondis temporarily transformed his catering company into sort of a meals-on-wheels to cater food for thousands of evacuees and emergency personnel.
Now, it's back to being one of the best catering companies in the region, and he's since added Joel at the Hampton, a hotel catering service inside the Hampton Inn near the Convention Center downtown. But back to the empire.
In addition to his two catering companies, Dondis has created three unique dining experiences, including Grand Isle, La Petite Grocery, and Sucré.
Grand Isle
Grand Isle is part of the Harrah's complex in downtown New Orleans. I never really think of going to Harrah's for a good meal, but that's all changed now. Grand Isle has exactly the kind of food I like going out for - homey, maybe even a little soulful, but that's better than anything you can make at home.
Try: The Potted Crab and the Sauteed Pork Chops in Mustard Butter
La Petite Grocery
I have to admit that I haven't eaten at La Petite, but a lot of my friends have and I hear nothing but great reviews. Justin Devillier took over as Executive Chef about a year ago, giving Dondis a little more time to devote to empire-building.
Try: The Gratin of Blue Crab (baked in brie cream) and the Crispy Skin Duck (with lavender scented duck jus)
Sucré
I would venture to say that Sucré is a first for New Orleans. Not to say that we don't have plenty of sweet treats (beignets and pralines have induced New Year's resolutions for years), but Sucré is a place devoted entirely to satisfying your sweet tooth. But it's not just a chocolate shop, either. Sucré elevates what could be just another sweet shop to a special occasion type of place.
A case filled with colorful, deeply flavored gelatos greet you as you enter. Past that, delicate, hand-crafted pastries are displayed like Faberge eggs. The back of the shop, however, conceals what I predict could make Sucre a household name. It's there you'll find Sucre Chocolates.
What seems like hundreds of chocolate creations are on display—exotic concoctions containing everything from Chinese Five Spice, to chocolates herbaceously infused with Thyme. Some look too beautiful to eat, but I always manage. You don't have to take my word for it. They've got an online shop where you can order and try them for yourself.
Try: Blange (Bananas Foster white chocolate ganache with fresh banana and rum), Meuniere (brown butter toasted almond infused chocolate ganache) and the PB&J (it's my favorite and exactly what you think).
Grand Isle
Address: 575 Convention Center Blvd, New Orleans, LA 70130
Phone: 504-520-8530
Website: grandislerestaurant.com
Hours: Lunch: daily 11:00 AM – 5:00 PM; Dinner: Sun - Thu: 5:00 PM - 11:00 PM, Fri & Sat: 5:00 PM- 12:00 AM
La Petite Grocery
Address: 4238 Magazine Street, New Orleans, LA 70115
Phone: 504-891-3377
Website: lapetitegrocery.com
Hours: Lunch: Tues – Sat: 11:30 AM – 2:30 PM; Dinner: Tues – Sat: 5:30 PM – until (no end time)
Sucré
Address: 3025 Magazine Street, New Orleans, LA 70115
Phone: 504-520-8311
Website: shopsucre.com
Hours: Sun-Thu: 9:00 AM-10:00 PM; Fri-Sat: 9:00 AM-12:00 AM
Photo credit: Elliot J. Thompson
About the author: Blake Killian cooks and photographs food for his blog, Blake Makes. He lives in New Orleans, where he works as a new media marketing consultant.
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