Dining Advice, Tips, Recommendations, and News
Is the Entree Going the Way of the Dinosaur?
Kim Severson poses that very question in the New York Times today. What do you think, Serious Eaters?
In a way entrees are a bulky anachronism, an ode to an earlier time when meat and potatoes were a given at every meal, whether we were eating at a four star restaurant or a diner. Let's face it. When we eat out nowadays we crave variety, stimulation, and satisfaction, and we're much more likely to get those things by ordering a number of small plates. Plus, sharing food at a restaurant is an easy way for us to connect with our friends and family.
How do most Serious Eaters eat at restaurants these days? We just order a bunch of food that sounds appealing. It usually ends up being a combination of appetizers, main courses, pastas, and side dishes. Somehow everyone at the table ends up sated and content. And isn't that the point?
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18 Comments:
I often eschew entrees due to their usual size and a desire to taste more things. What I see a lot and don't like is restaurants calling something a "small plate" or a "snack" when really it's just your typical entree hiding out behind a false name.
pgoat at 12:32PM on 12/05/07
I always share when I go out. A mix of app's and mains, with more app's usually.
NSW at 12:38PM on 12/05/07
I usually find myself glancing over a menu without the slightest concern over its category. Either an appetizer or an entree, its all food and its all going down the pie hole!!
steakpuff at 12:53PM on 12/05/07
When my boyfriend and I dine out, we tend to order appetizers and not entrees-- again, for more variety and smaller portions. I usually get a salad and eat a few appetizers, he usually eats the rest of the appetizers and springs for dessert. Ah, to have his metabolism.
anadequatenovel at 12:56PM on 12/05/07
We favor this variety and grazing style as well.... to the consternation of some waiters who still seem put out by it. As I couldn't finish an app, a main and a dessert anyway, they don't understand that I am not actually ordering any less than I would the traditional way.
i8alot at 1:11PM on 12/05/07
I think it is better to talk with someone while looking at the menu and plan the main dishes together. then half way through eating switch plates. then you still get variety but you get to try the stuff the restaurant is known for. make sure you do this with people you really have a good relationship with or it may end in bloodshed
franklindelanobluth at 1:17PM on 12/05/07
It really depends on the restaurant/meal/dining companions.
Sometimes nothing but a solid sandwhich platter or entree is the only thing that will stand up to a session of pints with friends. Other times one of everything is a requirement. Sushi is always a mad free-for-all, and most other ethnic foods tend to be best family style. My dining companions and I always select our restaurants based on what and how we want to eat at the time, and it's always different.
8ptstars at 1:18PM on 12/05/07
I am still very much in love with a well composed main course. Family style is fun, tastings are fun, but to me these are more representative of our short attention span culture, than a substantive transformation in culinary philosophy. A main course anchors the before and the after. Soups, cruditées, appetizers set the scene for the main course, which then informs the eventual cheese and desert courses. The pace of the meal, the selection of wines, all hinge on this. When I eat lots of little bites of this and that, I am NOT satisfied. My belly might be full, but I dont feel like I've really experienced anything fully. I HATE postmodernism SO MUCH, it is even ruining food...
seyo at 1:37PM on 12/05/07
It depends on how I feel, what the weather is like, is Venus in alignment with Mars, did I get enough sleep, how hungry I am and what is on the menu. To name a few lol.
I have been known to get a few drinks (with booze in them) and then graze on appys as I casually relax. If I am hungry sometimes I want the protein, starch and veggie entree du jour. If I am not so peckish maybe 1/2 sandwich and soup du jour. Maybe an entree salad, all in one plate tout d'suite. And the then the ultimate question, do they have good cake? OMG if they have good dessert I am picking at something and then bring on the cake!!!
JerzeeTomato at 1:51PM on 12/05/07
That really depends on mood and location. There are some restaurants where I am going for a specific thing that I love and wish to eat a great deal of. Jean Georges Vongerichten's various restaurants are a great example - the plate lunches and dinners at Jean-Georges are just wonderful, small amounts of awesome food with lots of variety. At other times I would be perfectly happy eating the mashed potatoes only at Vong's* and I have no intention of sharing them.
*Please don't hate on the place, it still has some really good dishes. I've never had the bad luck that so many people seem to have.
rockykay at 2:03PM on 12/05/07
One thing that wasn't mentioned in Severson's article is that food served in small portions is often pricier than an equivalent amount of food served in large portions. So here's my question: do small plates offer restaurants a chance to increase their markup, or is the increased cost of small plates directly related to how much more work is involved in cooking & serving them?
jamieforrest at 2:08PM on 12/05/07
I definitely don't discriminate against a menu item just because it's listed as a "main course". Obviously, it comes down to two issues: money and time. I want to spend as much time, and as little money, as possible. I'm not saying I'm cheap, but the ritual of everyone at the table ordering an app, a main course, and a dessert (which my family still does) makes me nauseous. I see all that money, and potential enjoyment, going down the drain. I prefer to order one -- or a few, depending on # of diners -- dishes at time, from any category, order wine, and ask the waiter to please leave a menu, as we'll surely be ordering more as we go. In short, I want to course out my meal, at my pace, enjoy my wine, enjoy the flow of a meal, and enjoy my dinner companion(s). I almost never encounter a server who's bugged by this. They sense I will tip well, and they see how much fun I'm having. Having been a waiter myself, I never minded the table that wanted to camp out like this, I knew they were enjoying themselves, I knew I didn't have to worry about them, and they gave my night, and my section, a sense of fun and pleasure, which is what it's all about.
cheeseburger at 3:57PM on 12/05/07
I'd be willing to put money on a bet that within twenty years the entree will go the way of the dinosaur even when dining at home.
Karen Resta at 4:11PM on 12/05/07
Jamie, you are on to something. I think this is really just a marketing and PR ploy. Food prices have gone up through the roof in the last year or two. Restaurants want to make people feel better about spending the same if not more money on significantly smaller dishes, so they write it up on the menus and promote it in magazines as being a new "concept" in dining, all while maintaining their margins in an increasingly expensive commodities market. American portion sizes have always been disgustingly huge anyway, so it's probably better this way. That being said, I still prefer having some structure to my dinner rather than it be a free for all. Family style is one thing, and thats fine, but the small portions tasting thing is annoying. I've never been into tapas for this very reason.
seyo at 6:15PM on 12/05/07
I know that my eyes are bigger than my stomach, and if I ever do order an appetizer and an entrée, I inevitably end up leaving most of my main course on the plate because there is so much I can eat. So lately I've just been ordering two appetizers, which is a perfect amount of food for me, plus, I can have my variety. Considering that I fancy appetizer food and would rather have a few little bites than a large chunk of something (and I always end up liking appetizer choices better than the main menu anyway), it works really well for me.
brooke29 at 6:30PM on 12/05/07
When it comes to standard dining, my family either opts for Appetizer/Entree or Entree/Dessert, mostly because we can't possibly finish the meal otherwise. Sometimes we'll go for all three when we know that all three will be excellent and fridge space isn't a concern.
Otherwise...it depends. My friends and family aren't averse to an appetizer meal, especially since they're now into dim sum and other fun things. I've been to plenty of places as of late where I could make at least several meals out of the appetizers at the very least. I wouldn't count entrees out because sometimes we just don't have time during the day to eat anything substantial (maybe a small muffin for breakfast and a small soup for lunch) so when dinner hits...well, that top-notch $12 entree that will fill us up is a bit more appetizing than ordering three appetizers that will only get us halfway there. ;D
First Chair at 7:43PM on 12/05/07
I like the idea of small plates, because I'm addicted to appetizers. Lots of times I'll order an appetizer with soup or salad instead of an entree.
When I go to a small plates restaurant, I do have to watch it, because it can get expensive. Ever sit at a trendy bar and order small plates? Whew.
Last night I ate at Quinn's in Seattle, a new small plates place. I had two glasses of wine with my plate: oxtails and gnocchi. I paid $36, including tip. I was happy because I'd gone with a group and we passed plates around. If I'd just had my order, I would have been hungry still. But it was a nice night out. We all thought it was worth it. And,man, was that place packed. And we're talking Tuesday night.
If I'm hungry for fish or steak, then I do like entrees.
Italian Woman at 1:04AM on 12/06/07
I've actually thought quite a bit about this in the past, so I'm happy the topic has hit the blogosphere.
To me, it depends. I love an adventure when I eat out . . . if I'm eating out for the food. Tapas, meze, antojitos--bring it on. The more new experiences for my palate, the better.
But if I'm out for the night to connect with my husband or a friend, where we want the focus to be on conversation and the food a backdrop (and I'm not saying it can be substandard, mind you), then I prefer the regular courses.
For instance, as much as I LOVED exploring the tapas bars in Seville, by the end of the week I felt like my husband and I hadn't ever been able to dig into a full conversation because we were always focused on the flavors in front of us or what to order next.
So for me, I'd have to say a balance of the two is the best bet.
swirlingnotions at 6:26PM on 12/06/07