Choosing the Big Apple over the Nation's Capital
Does getting too big for your chef pant's britches imply an eventual move to New York City? Apparently so for one of Washington's leading chefs, Fabio Trabocchi, who publicly revealed Friday that he's leaving Maestro at the Tysons Corner Ritz Carlton in McLean, Virginia—one of the area's most lauded kitchens—to become a chef-partner of SoHo's sexy Fiamma Osteria, part of Steve Hanson's mega B.R. Guest Restaurant Group.
Dueling D.C. critics Todd Kliman (of the Washingtonian) and Tom Sietsema (of the Washington Post), both published online statements about the breaking news Friday. That kind of intel is just too hot to wait around for a print edition. (Hot like Trabocchi's Braised Veal Chops with Honey, a popular recipe from his Cuisines of Le Marche cookbook).
"The decision was not an easy one," said Trabocchi, who had been looking to open a place of his own in the area. "My heart is in Washington." He said he was attracted to Fiamma because of "the opportunity to grow as a chef" and to help a younger generation of restaurant workers."
Does that mean you can't grow as a chef in our humble ol' town, Fabio? As Serious Eats reported earlier this year, Trabocchi cooked up a storm at this year's James Beard post-awards ceremony dinner. He's used to the world sweating his cuisine, though, as last year's Best Mid-Atlantic Chef, the Restaurant Association of Metropolitan Washington Chef of the Year in 2005 and one of Food & Wine's Best New Chefs way back in 2002.
Ya gotta take those golden opportunities, Fabio, we understand. But we'll miss your baby face preparing veal chops in Maestro's open kitchen. Keep in touch?
About the author: Erin Zimmer, Serious Eats's Washington, D.C., correspondent, is a just-graduated Georgetown gal following her nose about town as Washingtonian magazine's Dining intern and Best Bites blogger. She got her start as the Hoya campus paper's food columnist, and since entering "real person-hood" has ached for her dining hall's omelet station.
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3 Comments:
Erin,
I apologize but my decision as nothing to do with Washington against NY
I love Washington, and all it as done for me, as I mention was not easy decision...........
My family will leave here and I do not think of my self as "big"
I have a lot to learn and somentime thinks end up to be different that what I was planning for.
Sorry you think this way, and I will love to stay in touch
Fabio
Fabio at 1:50AM on 07/24/07
To Fabio:
I think Fabio misinterpreted Erin's playful tone for criticism. We in the D.C. area are sad to see you go, but not one of us would blame an evolving chef for going to New York City---and I know Erin feels the same way. For me, my first reaction was to get on the horn and make reservations for my "birthday dinner" three weeks in advance of my birthday, so I can go to Maestro one more time! No one blames Fabio---we would prefer you clone yourself, or at least leave a few recipes with your sous chefs! (P.S. His last day here is August 18. To those in the D.C. area: get on the horn yourself! It was still surprisingly easy to get a table at the best place in town---best until August 18.)
Teachertalk at 5:16PM on 07/26/07
Hello. I am new to this site (and it looks like a good one) because I was looking for more information re: Fabio's new committment.
As for Erin's assessment (and, I do confess I have no idea who she is but, it's nice to hear young voices), and knowing Fabio--her blog was kind of a low blow. "Too big for his chef pants britches" is derogatory--not playful. Especially for a chef who is "evolving." I've known Fabio for seven wonderful years and believe he is committed to his craft and his family. Reading his cookbook, one can only revile in his love for food and the family that provides the backdrop for great cooking. I can only imagine how difficult it was to make the decision to move his young family to Lower Manhattan.
But, if anything, Fabio is about learning, experimenting, trying new things---whether here or NYC. And, I wish him well. We will miss him terribly. Our daughter who first began going to Maestro at age 12, wil miss the warm, familia welcome, the extra special treatment, and Shirley Temples served in a martini glass.
This was a special place. A place where a super young chef made his pretty big mark, with his incredible generosity (order 7 courses and receive???). And, where else can you find a five star chef prepping his own vegetables at 11:am?
Erin, in the future, if you wish to praise someone--do it outright. Especially for someone like Fabio, who is the real, real deal and an incredibly talented and good, good person.
Oh- thanks for the tip--having dinner there the 16th and on the wait list for the 18th.
Impattyb1 at 9:17PM on 08/02/07