Dining Advice, Tips, Recommendations, and News
PrintHas Barbecue Gone Upscale?
Forbes Traveler explores the "high-end" barbecue restaurant trend, citing Blue Smoke, Big Bob Gibson Bar-B-Q, and Dinosaur Bar B Que as a few examples. I think the trend is more accurately described as a growing national awareness and enthusiasm for authentic regional barbecue (as Ed would say, barbecue is not "fancy pants" food). As a barbecue lover, I think this is what Martha would call a "good thing" — more barbecue lovers = more barbecue restaurants and better barbecue. Even so I do worry that this nationalization of barbecue may eventually lead to a less delicious barbecue monoculture that's consists only of "pork barbecue" and "beef barbecue," but until it does, I'm going to enjoy eating Texas barbecue in Manhattan.
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6 Comments:
There was a great seminar about the nationalization of barbecue at the Big Apple Block Party this year which included Ed, Jeffrey Steingarten and Lolis Eric Elie. Lolis seemed optimistic that although the regionalism of the past that had created discrete and specific "styles" of barbecue does not exist anymore, the trade-off is, more and more people out there are developing a higher level of appreciation for barbecue, thus allowing it to evolve in an all new way. He helped me feel not as sentimental as excited for what barbecue will become with all these new tastebuds that are learning how to taste good barbecue, no matter what its origins. For instance, I am patiently awaiting a Big Bob Gibson's to open in New York!
JustNancy at 11:29AM on 06/28/07
Man, I totally agree with the statement . . . "Even so I do worry that this nationalization of barbecue may eventually lead to a less delicious barbecue monoculture ..."
I have a gut feeling that New Yorkers (as well as a lot of other urbanites) are attempting to make good Southern cooking (BBQ) "chic."
And, in my humble opinion, EVERY time this occurs, three things happen:
1. Prices go up;
2. Quality goes down;
3. Self-aggrandizing "chefs" hop on the band wagon and attempt to show us how "talented" they are.
DocChuck at 12:34PM on 06/28/07
As anything gets more popular there will be some evolution and change, but I am still happy that there are more BBQ options in NY. They may not be the same as the places I have visited in the Carolinas, TN, TX, or other parts of the country, but they are still good.
I find it disappointing how hard it is to find good East Carolina style BBQ anywhere outside of the Carolina's as I don't get there often. I would risk some changes to the original formula if I could find some closer to home.
The costs of bringing good BBQ to NY are high, so a higher price seems natural. I don't know if it is an attempt to make things "chic", or just someone cashing in on high demand. I'm not sure that people are prepared for, or want "chic" BBQ.
Vitello Tonnato at 1:01PM on 06/28/07
I found it surprising to see the Dinosaur listed as "upscale", seeing as when I went there this past weekend, it looked exactly the same way it always has, with the same crowd of decidedly un-upscale diners and servers. But then again, I've only ever gone to the original Syracuse location, which looks like it's quite a bit different from it's off-shoots. I just hope it doesn't end up changing the original! I still love it better than just about anything I can get down here in Texas. :9
myzkyti at 5:58PM on 06/28/07
To Mr. Vitello . . .
In response to your missive: "I'm not sure that people are prepared for, or want "chic" BBQ." . . .
Neither am I, Mr. Vitello.
The "proof" will be in the pudding . . . or in this case, in the BBQ.
You see, as a part-time resident of Banner Elk, NC, I am fortunate enough to personally partake of some REALY good "Southern" BBQ, that is, GOOD North Carolina "pulled Pork."
Get my drift, Mr. Vitello?
I could send you a recipe or two, if you like, Mr. Vitello.
DocChuck at 6:20PM on 06/28/07
What I meant was that part of the lure of a BBQ is a certain atmosphere. Eating BBQ in a 4 star setting, with elegant plates and linens isn't going to appeal to most people. I think what most people think of as a BBQ is the opposite of what they think of when they think "chic".
I spent some time in the west Carolina area, but prefer the thinner, less tomato based East Carolina style. Heck, I'd even eat that in a "chic" place!
Vitello Tonnato at 6:43PM on 06/28/07