Jazz Fest Food
I have been to the New Orleans Jazz & Heritage Festival many, many times, yet every time I don't go, I feel that I'm missing something profoundly important. Especially now, with New Orleans's cultural heritage under siege post-Katrina, I am kicking myself that I haven't made plans to go this year.
What makes the festival great to me, however, is not the parade of big-name musicians appearing every day, though it is a unique experience to see artists like Elvis Costello, Bob Dylan, and Bonnie Raitt play in this unique setting.
What makes it great is the local and nonbig-name musicians and cooks playing and cooking at the smaller stages and tents.I saw Ricky Dillard practically levitate the Gospel Tent a few years ago, and I had just wandered in there fresh from a Wayne Shorter set, not ever having heard of him.
The food itself is so extraordinary that the music can almost seem like a bonus. I am partial to the cochon de lait po'boy from Love at First Bite and the meat pies from Mrs. Wheat's. My friend Dan Ruby has a terrific music festival website, and there was a great post about meat pies there yesterday by Beth Swindle.
Add a comment:
Previewing your comment:
HTML Hints
Some HTML is OK: <a href="URL">link</a>, <strong>strong</strong>, <em>em</em>
Comment Guidelines
Post whatever you want, just keep it seriously about eats, seriously. We reserve the right to delete off-topic or inflammatory comments. Learn more at our Comment Policy page.
If you see something not so nice, please, report an inappropriate comment.



8 Comments:
Mmmm... only one more week. The meat pies are always a must for me. This past weekend at French quater fest the african/jamaican restaurant had beef patties which I called louisiana meat pies with beef curry inside. They were really good. My jazzfest favorite is from C.P.G Catering. They have the best plate with 3 items...pecan catfish meuniere, seafood mirliton casserole, and crab cakes with a smoked tomato and jalapeno tartar... that sauce alone is one of the best things out there. And of course it wouldn't be fest with out crawfish bread and a cup of ya ka mein soup (for the hangover). mmm... cannot wait.
malenky at 1:39PM on 04/20/07
Please explain this: "Especially now, with New Orleans's cultural heritage under siege post-Katrina..." What does that mean? Under siege by whom?
Lorin at 12:34AM on 04/21/07
Lorin, I can't speak for Ed, but from what I've read many food industry workers were among those evacuated, and many of them made the hard decision to not move back. A lot of restaurants are gone, sure, but structures can be rebuilt; it's the people who ran them, cooked their food, and passed down recipes through generations that can't be replaced. There are pre-Katrina experiences, culinary and otherwise, that no one will ever have again, because the people that made them are just not there.
Lia Bulaong at 1:55AM on 04/21/07
Lia - Thanks for your thoughts, they are much appreciated. I live here and I don't entirely agree. We are back at our pre-K restaurant numbers (over 800 restaurants open) and the waiters here are making a killing. In fact, Tommy Cvitanovich, owner of Drago's (he gave away 77, 000 meals immediately after the storm) says his problem is finding managers. Everyone wants to wait tables because that's where the money is right now. Many of those "culinary and otherwise" experiences can and are being had here; that they're not is a fallacy perpetuated by I don't know who, but it's a fallacy. It IS a strange time in New Orleans - a little bit of this and a little bit of that (I'm rather tired of the "tale of two cities" metaphor) - but we are coming together, in unfortunately our typically slow-paced fashion. The truth is that making New Orleans (and environs) whole (in my opinion) means starting with the epi-center and then generating a ripple effect outward. That seems to be what is happening here, sort of, but with so many cooks in the kitchen (pardon the cliche), it's not always working nor functional. it's also not always popular. I wish there was a perfect answer, but simply put, there's not. All we can do is take action, help each other as best as possible and get ourselves back on the proverbial horse (vile, another cliche, sorry). I honestly believe most of us here are trying and even amid some racial tensions (that's sadly always been here too), there is a lot of harmony.
As for what you've read: That's not entirely true either. It was certainly the case at first, but there is some movement, albeit way slow. The answer is so complicated - insurance issues, re-building issues, government (state and federal) pokey-ness/ineptitude, money, losses...and it's SO personal as well as individual. It's not race or class distinctive as is often reported - a lot of people from all walks and all colors are/have gotten screwed.
I still want to know from whom Ed thinks New Orleans culture is under siege? That statement from Ed concerns me.
Lorin at 9:07AM on 04/21/07
Lorin, Ed Levine here. First of all, let me say right off I love New Orleans with all my heart and soul. I love its food, its music (I co-produced two Dr. John solo piano albums in a former life), and its very soul. Post-Katrina, I have observed a colossal failure by every level of government, starting with Bush, "Brownie," Governor Blanco, and Ray Nagin. I have been down there twice, and to see entire neighborhoods still lying in ruins is heartbreaking. Some of these are neighborhoods that can and should be rebuilt, others will never be safe from another Katrina-like hurricane and unfortunately should not be rebuilt, and yet no one seems to have the courage to say that. The resulting paralysis is both heartbreaking and debilitating.
Although restaurants are bustling, what I fear (and many of my journalist friends in New Orleans do as well) is that New Orleans will end up being a theme park of a city, and that much of the cultural soul and grit of the city will be lost as a result. God knows I don't want this to happen. I want every po' boy joint and every red beans and rice establishment in every neighborhood of New Orleans to come back better than ever. I have given money to Willie Mae Saeton's restaurant building fund,, and publicized it every chance I get. In fact, I am going to post about it again next week.
But I don't think there's any question that some important stuff has been washed away by Katrina, and at least some of that important stuff isn't coming back. So who is New Orleans under seige from? From every branch of government you or I could name.
Ed Levine at 8:15PM on 04/21/07
Thanks for your response Ed. I understand your position, but I too am a food writer in New Orleans and I disagree that our traditional foods/restaurants are at risk. The "Mom and Pop" places that many of your journalist friends thought would not return, have, and there are also new joints that have arisen to be our "new guard." Everyone is vitally aware of the importance of our food heritage and traditions, even big wheels like Besh, Adolfo Garcia, Frank Brigtsen, et al., are heping keep traditions alive and present. This isn't New Orleans without grit and soul - everyone here knows that - and I don't see that being lost, it's too much of who we are - Nonetheless, I hear you.
All of us here are painfully aware of government ineptitude - it stinks, but we must keep going, 'cause we can't wait for the yahoos to get straight.
I know you're fond of Willie Mae's, me too; I was there on her re-opening day and it was exeptional. Sadly the restaurant has remained closed since then owing to some staffing issues and as I've been told, "it's now in Willie Mae's hands." Such good work has been done, but there are others who need your (our) attention. Greg and Mary Sonnier who own Gabrielle restaurant (they were/are ardent supporters of Willie Mae throught her turmoil) need us now. It's their turn. Talk about being under siege. You can get details on their debacle from your New Orleans pals; they'll know what I'm talking about.
Again, thanks for your love and passion for New Orleans and a special thank you for responding to my question.
Lorin Gaudin at 8:32AM on 04/22/07
Well, Lorin, I live in New Orleans, as well. I'm interested to know if you ever look into the kitchens of the many places that you apparently regularly dine in. Was Spanish the language of the kitchen in New Orleans before the storm? I'm pretty sure that it wasn't. I'm not saying that this is a bad change (we are, after all, a port city and a city made up largely, historically, of immigrants, at that), but I am asking you why do you think that situation is occurring? Could it be because the people who have performed these jobs for many years, completely underpaid in most cases, can't afford to live here? Perhaps it's because the places and neighborhoods where they used to live pretty much don't exist anymore? You should probably get out of The Isle of Denial more often than you apparently do. It's not pretty. We have no meaningful public transportation, expensive housing and utility costs that are outrageous by anyone's standards. Our hospital system is shot to hell, the cops are undermanned and untrusted, localized crime is out of hand, and the criminal justice system is a national disgrace.
Then again, the "waiters are making a killing." Every night? Most nights? A few nights? What waiters? Waiters at Drago's? Where might all of these rich waiters be? If Tommy is turning them away, perhaps he could direct them to just about anywhere else, as most people in all levels of service seem to be hurting badly for front of house staff and could use the help-especially if there is a killing to be made.
And as for a comparison between the Sonnier's and the Scotch House? Are you really making a comparison or just another of your overstated generalities designed to make some kind of point? The Sonnier's had, among other things, good health and the advantage of being relatively young, insurance, a nice place worth selling over by the Track (though flooded it was still useful real estate in what had been a great location before the levees broke), some money in the bank, and the ability buy a place (in what has become the most desirable and bizarrely insulated section of Uptown) to get things up and running by themselves. Sadly, in what is surely one of the most complicated situations that I have ever witnessed (and pretty much a by the book "Just what's wrong with this place" situation) they have not been able to do that and have probably lost their asses in the bargain. It's a shame because they ran a great place and they are supremely nice people, but it's what it is. Willie Mae had none of those things. None. Those people that helped her did so because they had good hearts-nothing more- as surely 90% of the people who worked there had never been to the place before and many, many of them had never even been to New Orleans-they just wanted to help out in a bad situation. And they did. They didn't expect anything and, in the end, they got alot more than they bargained for on those long weekends in that junky ass place in Treme. Why don't you get a list of them and see if they wouldn't do it again, there or somewhere else, in a heartbeat? Volunteerism is about doing work for others and feeling good about it. Not much more, I don't think.
How can you possibly say that "traditions aren't at risk?" Perhaps not the stuff in the unflooded and previous to the storm fairly affluent (though, clearly, this being New Orleans, mixed shoulder to shoulder with the not so affluent-the huddled wodies, if you will) areas along the River, but as for the REST OF THE CITY? Treme, Gentilly, Broadmoor, the Lower 9, the East, etc would seem to be pretty much in danger of being marginalized or drastically changed. And you know what? I'm one of those who is honest enough to say that some of it is probably for the better, but not all of it and I'm certainly not blind enough to say that there is no threat to these traditions. I can't believe any thinking person would believe otherwise.
New Orleans is, without a doubt, a culture that is all of it's own and completely unique-this is, at the same time, our greatest weakness and by far our greatest strength. We're who we are and we don't apologize to anyone for it. This fixing things will take awhile and it's not going to be fast. We'll be doing it, largely on our own without the help of, or inspite of, the government on every level and every step of the way. But we will do it. There's too much to lose here and many of us can't seem to fathom living anywhere else.
Thankfully there are many people around the country who kind of don't get us, and don't even pretend to, but in many ways they want part of what we have. They see something, though often they're not even sure what, that they don't have in Des Moines, or Chattanooga, or even New York-and it's not just "go cups (though this IS one of our most civilized features)." This is a place where people "work to live" not "live to work" and while most of us are doing alot more work than living right now, at least we (or at least most of us) know what we are missing.
Euterpe at 5:59PM on 04/23/07
I'm sorry, I didn't mean to offend you or anyone and I certainly didn't intend for this to be contentious . I really just wanted to know more from Ed about his "...New Orleans cultural heritage under siege" comment. We are all passionate about our city and so in my passion-filled moment several days ago, I suppose I got a bit carried away. Mea Culpa. I certainly did not intend to engage in a one-upmanship of who knows more or who's got it worse; I think we've all had enough of that for one lifetime. I'm sorry for my role inciting that behavior too.
Lorin Gaudin at 11:58PM on 04/24/07