Dining Advice, Tips, Recommendations, and News

May 14, 2008

Chicago Repeals Foie Gras Ban

The Chicago Tribune is reporting:

Over the shouted objections of Ald. Joe Moore (49th), the ban's sponsor, the council used a parliamentary manuever to put the ordinance on the floor for a vote.

The council voted 37-6 to repeal the two-year-old ban, which critics argued had made Chicago--and the City Council--a national laughingstock.

And the folks at D'Artagnan just sent out an email blast celebrating. The D'Artagnan missive, after the jump.

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Where to Find Duck Fat French Fries Across the Country

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Duck fat fries from Duck Fat Restaurant in Portland, Maine. Photograph from the Paupered Chef.

Duck, fat and fries are three words that please most people. Combining them is a very beautiful thing. Chef Amanda Freitag at New York City's The Harrison isn't the only one bathing spuds in quack-quack grease. She cuts hers with a malt vinegar mayo, given the duck fat's richness. After the jump, see what other chefs across the country are skipping peanut or cottonseed oil to embrace rendered duck fat.

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Serious Sandwiches: The Aussie Burger

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Add beets, and you have got an Aussie Burger.

Is there anything greater than the breakfast burger? I love a decent burger, and if you top it with an over easy egg, something magical happens. And that magic is called egg yolk, covering your burger in gooey goodness. Last week I sampled the breakfast burger from Goodburger (a slightly upscale, NYC burger chain) along with some co-workers, one of whom remarked, "Add some beets to this, and you've got an Aussie Burger." Come again? Beets? Now that sounds like something I could get into.

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Snapshots from Italy: Rome's Organic Market

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In a city of numerous and terrific markets that are spread among wonderfully characteristic neighborhoods, it is almost hard to become attached to yet another one. But Rome's twice-monthly Organic Market has definitely won me over.

It takes place on the second and fourth Sunday of every month, which is more than enough to get excited about. If the timing is right, it is a relief to have a place to head for fresh produce on a day when everything else is shut down tight. The location is right, too, in a little piazza where some of the most characteristic streets of the Centro Storico converge, not far from the Campo de'Fiori.

Relaxed and Leisurely Pace

My first visit had a very relaxed vibe, especially compared to the usual frenzied commotion at every other market on Fridays and Saturdays, when everyone is scrambling to get their shopping done. Sundays are sacred for most Romans, reserved for relaxing or spending time with the family. Although this little market was buzzing, it wasn't too busy to have a leisurely chat with the organic producers who had traveled from all over Lazio, Umbria, and lower Tuscany, eager to answer questions or give me a sample to nibble.

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Burnin' Down the House in Chicago, Pakistani Osso Bucco-Style

20080509-sabri-nihari.jpgIt seems like every year one of my favorite Pakistani restaurants burns down. Two years ago it was Khan BBQ, my favorite spot to grab green chili slathered charcoal tandoor fired chicken boti. The fire turned what was once a dingy smoky cabbie joint, thick with smoke from poor ventilation, into a relatively elegant peach colored banquet hall with a chandelier that would be at home in the Taj Mahal.

Last year, apparently due to faulty wiring, my other go-to spot, Sabri Nihari, burned down. Unlike Khan BBQ, the new incarnation, a narrow El car-wide corridor of a restaurant outfitted with more mirrors than a ballet studio, is a step down from the old, pure white Liberace-like garishness of the old spot. The owners assured me this was a temporary location, though it’s been open for over a year now, so maybe not.

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Mother's Day Brunch Recommendations from All Over

I asked some of my food critic friends and some of the correspondents from around Serious Eats where they would recommend taking your mom on Mother's Day. Intel poured in from around the country. And I added my own picks, too.

Atlanta

John Kessler, food columnist and feature writer for the Atlanta Journal-Constitution, says:

We're going to Watershed, which has a great, often overlooked brunch with cream biscuits, lard biscuits, toad in the hole, poached eggs with spinach and country ham, house-cured salmon, candied bacon. 406 West Ponce De Leon Avenue, Decatur GA 30030; 404-378-4900; watershedrestaurant.com

A nice new choice might be Parish, a very cool-looking New Orleans cooking spot in an old bleach factory in one of the suddenly new in-town nabes that was all crack houses and kudzu just a couple of years ago. It had a fine roast beef debris sandwich with mustard and pickles, but I think Mother's Day brunch is more. 240 North Highland Avenue, Atlanta GA 30307; 404-681-4434; parishatl.com

[After the jump, some serious recommendations from D.C., Dallas, Chicago, New York, and L.A. that are worthy of that special lady in your life.]

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This Week in Eating Out

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Southern California Shakes: Erin Zimmer gives us a list of her favorite spots for date shakes.

Creole Comforts: 'Fesser makes Northerners drool with jealousy over his recommendations as to what to eat at the New Orleans Jazz Fest.

Southern Specialty: Pride or scourge of the South? John T. Edge investigates the history of fried dill pickles in an excerpt from his book Southern Belly.

D.C. Kimchi To Go: Erin Zimmer celebrates one of the more interesting D.C. street vendors, a Korean cart called L Street Vending that serves exciting house specialties like Bulgogi and Bibimbap.

Best-Mex: Serious Eaters voted Houston and L.A. the two best Mexican Food towns in the U.S. - check out which cities got honorable mention.

Supermarket Jetsetter: Wooed by the extensive offerings of this Whole Foods-esque Italian grocery store, Gina DePalma is willing to forgive Eataly Torino for its stupid name.

Chile Dogs: Mouthwatering photographs from Robyn Lee of mayo-rific hot dogs and sandwiches from a Chilean restaurant called Rapa Nui.

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Snapshots from Italy: Rome's Organic Market

In a city of numerous and terrific markets that are spread among wonderfully characteristic neighborhoods, it is almost hard to become attached to yet another one. But Rome's twice-monthly Organic Market has definitely won me over.
Continue reading »

Burnin' Down the House in Chicago, Pakistani Osso Bucco-Style »

San Francisco Chronicle's Michael Bauer: Five Great Bay Area Dining Experiences »

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Mango Bean Salad

Fresh fruit and hearty beans make a refreshing side for our Morningstar Farms® Southwestern Style Veggie Cakes.
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