November 10, 2009
Posted by Erin Zimmer, November 9, 2009 at 5:15 PM
Note: Over the weekend I visited Montreal and thanks to Katerine of the Epicurean Life, forgot what it felt like to be hungry. Stay tuned this week for my snapshots from Montreal.
[Photographs: Erin Zimmer]
Calling a pastry "buttery" seems a little redundant, but the Kouign Amann, is like a croissant multiplied by a stick of butter. Originally from the French region of Bretagne (where it actually translates as "butter cake"), it has that delicate layer thing happening inside kind of like babka, topped with a golden crackly sugar shell.
At Patisserie Kouign Amann in the Plateau neighborhood of Montreal, they make warm batches of the namesake pastry all day long. The recipe sounds simple enough: a round of dough with gobs of buttery sugar water on top. But the lady at the register insisted that "people always seem to mess it up at home, which is why they come here."
I don't know what it was about this pastry—the ingredients aren't crazy complex—but I had to take another bite. And another. The pastry sheets inside stay moist while the outside crunch is like the tappable top part of creme brulee. After the jump, take a look at how it's made.
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From Slice
Posted by L.A. Pizza Maven, November 9, 2009 at 1:45 PM
[Photograph: Adam Kuban]
Gialina Pizzeria
2842 Diamond Street, San Francisco CA 94131 (map); 415-239-8500; gialina.com
Pizza Style: Artisanal
Oven Type: Gas-fired
I have several vivid memories of San Francisco restaurants from when I lived there, back in the days of yore. I often wistfully recall the sight of the cook hand-pulling noodles at Kirin and the incomparable dry fried squid my friends and I would fight over. At other times, I daydream and find myself in North Beach, inhaling garlic vapors before walking into Caffe Sport just as lunch hour ends and sharing shrimp and pasta with an old friend. Such culinary thoughts set me salivating, as if I were one of Pavlov's dogs.
One memory, though, that is missing is the memory of any really good pizza. Happily, this past summer, I filled in a few of the remaining gigs of memory storage with mouthwatering pizzas from
Tony's Pizza Napoletana,
A16,
Delfina, and
Pizzeria Picco. And now, having returned to
Pizzeria Gialina a second time for confirmation purposes, I can confidently endorse Alan Richman's choice of this cozy, neighborhood restaurant as one of the country's best pizzamakers. Richman's opinions, as expressed
in the June GQ article, may suffer from a serious case of fill-in-the-blank-with-a-syndrome-of-your-choosing, but at least some of his choices did merit the attention, if not the ranking, he bestowed on them. Whether Gialina is my 14th-best pizza,
Sharon Ardiana, who opened it in January 2007 and dedicated the restaurant to her Nonna Lina, is unequivocally producing some of the most imaginative and flavorful pies that I've had the gastronomic pleasure of consuming.
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From Serious Eats: New York
Posted by Carey Jones, November 9, 2009 at 1:30 PM
[Photos: Robyn Lee]
Moving Onto The Next Round:
Levain
Yura on Madison
Bouchon Bakery
In our first round of tastings for the Serious Eats Chocolate Chip Cookie Championship, we're headed uptown, to the Upper East and Upper West Sides. After combing the bakeries, asking our commenters, and doing a few preliminary nibbles, we've settled on eight: Levain, Bouchon Bakery, Two Little Red Hens, Hampton Chutney Company, Citarella, Fairway, Yura on Madison, and Silver Moon Bakery.
The blind taste test, and our favorite chocolate chip cookies uptown, after the jump.
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From Serious Eats: New York
Posted by Kathy YL Chan, November 9, 2009 at 1:00 PM
[Photo: Kathy Chan]
Hands down, one of my favorite breakfast pastries in the city. I've had many, and I mean, many, morning pastries in the city, and Caffe Falai's Chocolate-Pear Turnover ($3) remains at the top of my list. This turnover is always flawlessly executed, with half a sweet pear smothered in dark chocolate, and nestled between the flaky, buttery sheets. Dusted in cocoa powder and powdered sugar, it's not too small and not too big, a fine way to start the morning with a cup of coffee. The turnover dough is crisp and light—it's a messy affair, but worthwhile.
Caffe Falai
265 Lafayette Street, New York NY 10012 (map)
212-274-8615
falainyc.com/caffe
From Serious Eats: New York
Posted by Kathy YL Chan, November 9, 2009 at 11:30 AM
[Photos: Kathy Chan]
It's always around this time of year, just a few weeks before Thanksgiving, that my fatty greasy cravings intensify to alarming degrees. Fries are constantly on my mind, along with milkshakes and doughnuts and buttery pastas. It's no wonder, then, that I've found myself at the recently opened T-Poutine on the Lower East Side on far too many occasions. Gourmet? No. Satisfies those greasy hankerings? Oh yes.
I'll tell you first, this is a meal to split if you know what's good for your health. Your heart and cholesterol will forever thank you. T-Poutine is packed on weekend evenings, but during the weekdays, it's frequently empty. Those are the times when I like this place —quiet and with plenty of seating.
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Posted by Nick Kindelsperger, November 9, 2009 at 11:00 AM
The best bánh mì in Chicago?
[Photographs: Nick Kindelsperger]
Nhu' Lan Bakery
2612 W. Lawrence, Chicago IL 60625 (map); 773-878-9898
The Short Order: Freshly baked bread and perfect bánh mì.
Want Fries with That? Nope, but some shrimp chips are possible.
Want Ketchup? This sandwich needs nothing, eat it as is.
You can keep your paninis. I'll forever give up the club sandwich or limit my meatball sub intake—but me and thebánh mì have a serious, committed sandwich relationship that needs constant nourishment. The bánh mì's power lies in its striking balance. The fatty meat, which can include head cheese and pate, contrasts with the acidic, pickled vegetables like daikon radishes, cucumbers, and carrots. Have I mentioned the slight jalapeño kick? The way the cilantro haunts each bite?
But first lets talk about the bread. It needs to be Vietnamese baguette. I had a version on an Italian roll once and nearly threw the sandwich back at the vendor's face. Using both wheat and rice flour (see, it's all about balance), the Vietnamese baguette rolls are delicately crisp on the outside and improbably tender on the inside.
In Chicago, most people tend to prefer the bánh mìs at Ba Le Bakery. They are certainly a glorious thing but I've gravitated to Nhu' Lan Bakery. Not only is it closer to my house, but their sandwiches have a better balance of ingredients.
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Posted by Erin Zimmer, November 9, 2009 at 10:30 AM
There's more to Denver food culture than the Denver omelet. The city is home to some of the country's best Mexican food, microbreweries galore, and a handful of fast-casual chains (cough, Chipotle) got their start here. While Denverians have jumped on board many of the popular national trends like gastropubs, noodle bars, and local-souring, they've also held onto some uniquely Denver foodisms.
Fast-Casual
Chipotle. [Flickr: LinksmanJD]
Denver is kind of the motherland of fast-casual food concepts. Chipotle started here, and the burrito chain continues to expand and challenge the idea of "fast-food," installing solar panels and sourcing sustainably-raised beef and vegetables from farmers.
Bacon cheeseburger with barbecue sauce from Smashburger. [Flickr: paulswansen]
Smashburger is another Colorado chain that has spread its wings to Idaho, Iowa, Minnesota, Nebraska, Ohio, and beyond. Following the Chipotle-style business model, it's a roll-right-up and sit-yourself-down place minus the fluorescent heat lamps and frozen patties. The burgers are made fresh from 100% Angus beef and are smashed between "artisan" buns (egg, chipotle, or multi-grain). The signature Smashfries are spiked with rosemary and garlic. Noodles & Company is another chain and now has over a hundred outlets. Surprise, surprise, they sell noodles—linguine, elbows, and other forms of squiggly pasta, with multiple sauce options.
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From Serious Eats: New York
Posted by Joe DiStefano, November 9, 2009 at 10:00 AM
"Nothing screams glamour more than a gargantuan kimchi-filled bun marked with furrows deeper than a Klingon's forehead."
[Photos: Joe DiStefano]
The awning reads "Oriental Glamour," but the Korean name of this spot is Ming Chan Dong. After a chat with Paulie Sunhine, my dry cleaner to whom I regularly turn for advice on all matters Korean, I'm pretty sure the name roughly translates to many bright appetizers from the East. Indeed, as this Chowhound post shows, there are tons of appetizers and entrees both Northern Chinese and Korean. I stopped by the other day with my heart and stomach set on trying just one: kimchi jjin bbang. After all, nothing screams glamour more than a gargantuan kimchi-filled bun marked with furrows deeper than a Klingon's forehead.
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From Serious Eats: New York
Posted by Carey Jones, November 8, 2009 at 7:00 PM
Over at her own blog, The Girl Who Ate Everything, Serious Eats and AHT editor Robyn Lee (the eye that brings you 95% of the prettier photos on this site) has an incredible guide to sandwiches—from grilled cheese to Cubans to banh mi and more. While it's largely New York-centric, she forays into Paris, Chile, Norway, and beyond. Not a recommended read on an empty stomach.
From Serious Eats: New York
Posted by Laren Spirer, November 6, 2009 at 3:00 PM
[Photos: Laren Spirer]
On Monday night, the Astor Center hosted its first Tweetup, co-sponsored by Chartreuse and LUPEC NYC. The idea behind the Tweetup was to gather up cocktail enthusiasts, many of whom are on Twitter, for an interactive event/cocktail party. We were fortunate enough to have Jean-Marc Roger, the president of Chartreuse Diffusion, visiting from France, which he only does twice a year. And although he wasn't willing to share the 130-item ingredient list for the age-old spirit, which is still made by monks in the French Alps, he was kind enough to donate yellow and green Chartreuse so the ladies of LUPEC could create Chartreuse-based cocktails for the group.
There were six drinks in all, each with an entirely different flavor profile, but each featuring yellow or green Chartreuse, and sometimes even both. The Bubbly Scribe was a light and easy drink, perfect for kicking of the night, created by Meaghan Dorman, of Raines Law Room. The citrus blends beautifully with the Chartreuse, and the bubbles lift it to a festive level. If you haven't been to Raines, it's a perfect example of the pre-prohibition speakeasy cocktail dens that are dotting the city of late, named after an 1896 New York State tax law passed in an attempt to curb liquor consumption. It's down a few stairs, filled with cozy booths equiped with buzzers for summoning the waitstaff.
The recipe, after the jump.
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Posted by Hawk Krall, November 6, 2009 at 2:45 PM
"The dogs are your standard Deitz & Watson, but what really makes them stand out is the steamed buns and homemade pepper hash."
Tucked away in a corner of South Philadelphia, right around the corner from Philip's, one of my favorite cheesesteak joints, lies what just might be Philly's best kept hot dog secret. Hollyeats.com calls it the best hot dog in Philadelphia, and I think I might agree.
I parked in a nearby half-abandoned strip mall near a guy selling bootleg Phillies t-shirts, found a battered newsstand and a cart selling fish sandwiches, but that couldn't be it. Maybe this legendary hot dog man had disappeared, or simply went home at 2 p.m. or "when the bread runs out" like many of Philly's working class lunch spots.
Then out of the corner of my eye I saw a green truck with about 25 people lined up beside it and knew that this was the spot. Looks like a custom-built rig he's got going on—a pickup truck with a gleaming silver food service station built onto the back, serving hot dogs and sausages from steam trays.
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From Serious Eats: New York
Posted by Kathy YL Chan, November 6, 2009 at 2:15 PM
[Photo: Kathy Chan]
One square big enough to share. A banana cake with the slightest tang of sour cream. A smother of chocolate, closer to a ganache than frosting. And a single banana chip to finish. Thumbs up. If you pop the cake in the toaster oven for a few minutes, the edges get extra crisp and the dark chocolate turns molten—a delicious lava bit with each forkful.
It's lovely, yes, but the single best item at Oro Bakery are those madelines, plump, moist and lemony. You might remember them from our post on Serious Eats's Guide to the Best Madeleines in New York City. They are stellar, I kid you not!
Oro Bakery
375 Broome Street, New York NY 10013 (map)
212-941-6368
orobakerybar.com
