This recipe appears in:How to Make Your Ice Cream as Dense, Rich, and Chewy as a New England Scoop Shop's
New England scoop shops are some of the country's best, in part because they tend to specialize in dense, rich ice creams with little added air and a distinct pleasant chewiness. Now you can MacGyver a batch of your own.
Why this recipe works:
- A moderate butterfat content makes for an ice cream that doesn't get too aerated.
- Evaporated milk, many egg yolks, corn syrup, and arrowroot powder add chewiness and body to the base.
- Churning the ice cream until it's just solid, then freezing it as fast as possible, makes for a low-air ice cream that stays extra creamy.
- 8 large egg yolks
- 3/4 cup sugar
- 1/4 cup corn syrup
- 1 1/2 cup heavy cream
- 1 1/2 cup evaporated milk (a little more than 1 can), divided
- 2 teaspoons arrowroot starch
- 1 teaspoon vanilla extract
- 1/2 to 1 teaspoon kosher salt, to taste
In a heavy-bottomed saucepan, whisk together egg yolks, sugar, and corn syrup until well combined. Add cream and 1 1/4 cups evaporated milk and whisk to combine. In a small bowl, stir remaining 1/4 cup evaporated milk with arrowroot starch until is dissolved and forms a slurry with no lumps. Set aside.
Place saucepan over medium-low heat and cook, whisking frequently, until the custard's temperature reaches 170°F (custard is ready when it coats a spoon and a finger swiped across the back leaves a clean line).
Remove from heat and stir in arrowroot starch slurry, vanilla extract, and salt. Pour custard through a fine-mesh strainer into an airtight container and chill in an ice bath or refrigerator until temperature drops to 40°F, about 4 hours for ice bath, up to overnight for refrigerator.
Churn ice cream until it just takes on a firm soft serve consistency without any runnyness; a spoon pressed across the top should leave a clean impression that doesn't collapse. Then, working very quickly, transfer ice cream to a wide, flat airtight container and chill in the bottom-back of a well-stocked freezer for at least 6 hours, preferably overnight. Avoid opening freezer door during hardening if possible. When ice cream is fully hardened, serve with plenty of mix-ins.