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Choose your cookie: peanut butter with chocolate chips, or chocolate with peanut-butter chips? [Photograph: Elizabeth Barbone]

Recently, a friend asked me to tweak my classic chocolate chip cookie recipe. And by "tweak," he meant, "transform it into chocolate cookies with peanut butter chips." He was pretty specific, requesting that I use cocoa powder to make a moist, chocolaty dessert. Made sense to me!

I did just what he asked—I added cocoa powder to the chocolate chip cookie recipe, cutting back on the rice flour to compensate. But the cookies didn't have the rich, chocolate-heavy punch I was looking for. They were just okay, and "okay" basically defeats the whole purpose of cookies in the first place.

So, for my next batch, I added melted chocolate to the cocoa powder. And to get a softer, more tender crumb, I melted the butter instead of creaming it. As I stirred peanut butter chips into the chocolate batter, I muttered, "You got peanut butter in my chocolate!" I laughed at my own joke because no one else was there to appreciate my callback to a decades old Reese's Peanut Butter Cup commercial. Of course, I had to finish the bit, "You got chocolate in my peanut butter," I replied to myself.

And then it hit me. Why not also make a batch of peanut butter cookies with chocolate chips?

For the peanut butter cookies with chocolate chips, I slightly varied my flourless peanut butter cookie recipe, which makes a thin, crisp cookie. I wanted this batch to be nice and chewy, and thick enough to envelop and stand up to the chocolate chips. So I added an extra egg and just enough rice flour to give the cookies some body.

Both batches of cookies came out perfectly. The chocolate cookies with peanut butter chips are rich and chocolaty; the peanut butter cookies with chocolate chips are super peanut-buttery. With both recipes, you can decide whether you want peanut butter (chips) in your chocolate (cookies) or chocolate (chips) in your peanut butter (cookies).

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