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[Photograph: Paul Winch-Furness]

The opening chapter of Martin Morales's new cookbook, Ceviche: Peruvian Kitchen, contains, not surprisingly, an array of ceviches. Some are traditionally Peruvian, others have a modern British twist, while still others retain influence from the Japanese community in Peru. These types vary by ingredient, but also by technique: the traditional recipes are far more rustic than the others, and each Japanese recipe requires that fish be cut in a thin, sashimi-style piece. Call me lazy, but I prefer rustic, bolder flavors to the more delicate (and time consuming) recipes.

This particular ceviche is the signature dish at Morales's London restaurant, and its flavors will likely be familiar to ceviche fans: chili, onion, lime, and very fresh fish. The stand-out component of the dish is its aji amarillo chili-laced tiger's milk (the saucy marinade for the fish). The fruity chili, a favorite in Peru, brings sweet heat to the dish, setting it apart from all of the jalapeno- or habanero-filled ceviches you're likely to encounter state-side.

Why I picked this recipe: I couldn't cook this book without making at least one ceviche.

What worked: I appreciated the subtlety of the garlic, ginger, and cilantro infused lime juice in the tiger's milk. I could still taste the layers of flavor in the final dish without all of the ingredients cluttering up the bowl of fish.

What didn't: I don't recommend using a full large red onion. As will be the case with most of the recipes in this series, I'd cut the onion in half.

Suggested tweaks: If you can't find aji amarillo chilies, you can substitute a mix of habaneros, orange bell pepper, and a bit of orange juice. If you can't find limo chilies, you can substitute a habanero chili mixed with a squeeze of lemon juice. Morales recommends baking the sweet potato, but you could also steam it or boil it whole (with the skin on).

As always with our Cook the Book feature, we have five (5) copies of Ceviche: Peruvian Kitchen to give away this week.

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