Cook the Book

Chicken and Egg From 'Coi' (Part 2)

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[Photograph: Maren Caruso]

After you've made your stock and seaweed powder, it is time to tackle the actual chicken and egg components of Daniel Patterson's Chicken and Egg from his new cookbook, Coi. The "chicken" is actually a potent chicken jus made by simmering browned chicken backs and necks in wine and that AP stock over which you've slaved. The jus gets a quick dashi-like boost from kombu and katsuobushi and is reduced to a spoon-coating consistency.

Next up is the egg. Instead of poaching a whole egg, or slow-cooking it in an immersion circulator as is the trend these days, Patterson scrambles it. But the technique is more than that. Borrowing from the pillowy eggs in a properly made egg-drop soup, Patterson pours the beaten egg into simmering water and cooks it for just 20 seconds. The result is an outstandingly fluffy egg, almost like an instant soufflé. You can make eggs like this anytime you want (jus and powder be damned); in fact, if there's one take-away from the Coi book, it's this technique.

Why I picked this recipe: Eggs in 20 seconds? Yes, please.

What worked: I'm seriously in love with this egg method, but the finger-licking chicken jus is great, too.

What didn't: Keep in mind that you will need to poach each egg in its own separate pot. You can get two going almost at the same time if you boil two separate pots of water at once. Only poach one egg at a time, though, to make things less hectic.

Suggested tweaks: If you want to streamline the recipe a bit, you could make the jus using high-quality store-bought chicken stock and (likely) re-dehydrate the kombu in a low oven. It still won't be fast, but it certainly won't take 3 days. You can find kombu and katsuobushi at Asian grocery stores.

As always with our Cook the Book feature, we have five (5) copies of cookbook to give away this week.

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