[Photograph: Kelsey McClellan]

When you see your first batch of blueberries, think of this recipe from Jeni's Splendid Ice Cream Desserts. Portions of shortcake batter are spooned on top of a pile of fruit, and the entire thing is baked until the berries are bubbling. It's messy, fruity, crumbly, and sweet, and best served drowned in ice cream.

Tips: With modern supermarkets, it seems like some berry is almost always in season. However, if your neck of the woods isn't currently carrying blueberries, pick your second favorite, use the same amount (2 1/2 pounds) and rename it any-berry cobbler. It's that flexible.

Tweaks: As you can see, perfect presentation is not of the utmost importance for this dessert; the sloppier, the better. We do suggest following the example above and serving individual portions in tiny trifle dishes; it's the best way to contain the juice from the berries and the ice cream as it melts. Buttermilk, vanilla, or creme sans lait are all good choices.

As always with our Bake the Book feature, we have five (5) copies of Jeni's Splendid Ice Cream Desserts to give away.

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