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[Photograph: Andrew Purcell]

Latkes are a far more common sight at Hanukkah than Passover, but there's no real reason why you can't fry up a batch in the springtime. If you use matzoh meal as a binder, as Jamie Geller suggests in her new cookbook, Joy of Kosher, the latkes will be safely kosher for Passover. And if you continue to follow her guidance and whip up a batch of puréed latkes, you'll have fried potato pancakes in no time. Made from a thick potato-y batter, these latkes are like a three-way cross between hash browns, fry bread, and blini. In other words, they are awesome.

Why I picked this recipe: I realize that latkes aren't exactly Passover food, but I was too curious about this puréed variation to pass it up.

What worked: These are, hands-down, the easiest and best latkes I've ever made. Plus the crème fraîche and caviar don't hurt.

What didn't: Nothing.

Suggested tweaks: To make the latkes Kosher for Passover, substitute matzoh meal for the cornmeal and olive oil for the canola oil. I served the latkes with salmon roe; you can use any caviar that fits in your budget and/or availability. (The latkes are also great without the caviar.) You can substitute sour cream for the crème frâiche.

As always with our Cook the Book feature, we have five (5) copies of Joy of Kosher to give away this week.

About the author: Kate Williams is a freelance writer and personal chef living in Berkeley, CA. She is a contributor to The Oxford American, KQED's Bay Area Bites, SFoodie, and Berkeleyside NOSH. She blogs at Cooking Wolves. Follow her @KateHWiliams.

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