Stones Throw, a new San Francisco restaurant from a team of Michael Mina vets, opened in the Russian Hill neighborhood last month. We chatted with Ryan Cole, one of three owners, and Chef Jason Halverson about one of their signature dishes: Sunchoke Soup ($12).
The dish came about while Halverson, who believes a single soup always deserves a spot on the starter section, was developing the first draft of his menu. During staff taste tests, the team made it clear that the sunchoke soup, with its creamy texture and vibrant flavors, needed to make the cut on opening day.
The soup makes a statement with its tableside preparation, which leaves only a brightly colored confit egg yolk sprinkled with chives bobbing above the surface of the broth. The dramatic move is a nod to the team's fine-dining roots, albeit in a less formal atmosphere geared toward a younger crowd.
The base of the soup is a smooth, savory puree of sunchokes, shallots, vegetable stock, and butter, enriched even more with the addition of the custardy confit yolk. To make the dish multi-dimensional, Halverson balances the creamy broth with crispy sunchokes and black walnuts for crunch, and compressed fresh green apples to lighten up the rich, buttery broth.
About the author: Tory Putnam lives in San Francisco, where she can frequently be found tasting and photographing food and drinks.