Indian Squid Mince Masala. [Photograph: Prasanna Sankhe]

Most seafood dishes in Western India are prepared in a curry version or the thicker, drier sukka manner. At times, both are served together so that the person eating the day's fresh catch can drench their rice with one and enjoy the other with roti—it's the best of both worlds and nobody complains.

Unlike squid recipes that call for rounds to be breaded and fried, this masala uses roughly chopped bits that are especially delicious in the hot and fragrant sauce. Just remember to stir vigorously once you add the powdered spices; if you find them sticking to the pan, just add a few drops of water. Can't handle the heat? Tone it down by either cutting out the serrano chili or reducing the amount of chili powder. It tastes best with a squeeze of lime, served atop rice or a wheat-based flatbread.

About the author: Denise Dsilva Sankhe is a writer & creative director by profession. But that's only when she isn't eating her way across India. She recreates this delicious cuisine in her Mumbai home, which she shares with her husband, who has long since given up his determination to have salads for dinner.


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