The Assembly Line
Spinach, Egg, and Cheese ($4.75)
This was a surprise hit. The dough is light and airy, and the gooey green flavor of spinach and cheese is hard to argue with. The egg probably adds some richness while it holds the filling together, too.
Bavarian Sausage ($4.25)
A disappointing showing for Bavaria. We had high hopes, but the puff pastry was gummy instead of flaky, and the sausage had more bounce than bite. Plus, I really wanted some sauerkraut.
Cheddar Cheese and Garlic Roll ($3.90)
This savory spiral is like a cinnamon roll without the cinnamon. The light, yeasty dough is rich with cheddar and green onion and just enough garlic to taste good without ruining your breath for a week.
Potato and Cheese ($3.80)
In theory, the combination of potatoes and cheese should be a winner—plus it’s got a cool shape. But some off taste haunted my palate and ruined the whole thing. I’ll try again another day.
Potato and Mushroom ($3.80)
It was a bad day for potato piroshki. With a thick, buttery pastry crust and the earthy mushrooms I like so much, this should’ve been a favorite. Unfortunately, there was an unidentified unpleasantness lurking in there somewhere.
Sauerkraut, Cabbage, and Onion ($3.90)
The sauerkraut arrived late for the sausage but was pretty good on its own. The mix of cabbage and kraut meant it wasn’t overpowering, and a hint of caraway was a nice touch.
Mushroom, Onion, and Celery ($3.70)
The deep, earthy flavor of mushrooms dominate this stuffed bread. The dough isn’t too heavy, but there’s a lot of it. The celery balances the mushrooms but, sadly, doesn’t add any crunch.
Beef and Onion ($4.90)
Beef and onion, the piroshki by which all others are measured. It’s a handheld delight of flaky, buttery pastry wrapped around a finely chopped mix of beef, onion, and spices. Exactly what a piroshki should be.
Smoked Salmon Pate ($4.80)
If Seattle had an official piroshki, this would be it. The thick, buttery crust hides a decadent, bright pink mix of smoked salmon, cream cheese, and onion. With a little dill, it’s quite the catch.
Beef and Cheese ($4.90)
Take a classic beef and onion piroshki, add gooey cheddar cheese and— by necessity— wrap it in a more robust dough. It’s greasy, meaty, delicious, and portable.
Ham and Cheese ($4.90)
The mozzarella probably adds some bulk, but salty ham and healthy spinach are the stars of this show. Wrapped in puff pastry, it’s a robust meal that would keep Popeye going strong.