[Photographs: J. Kenji Lopez-Alt]

My temporary home in San Francisco's Mission district is known more for its abundance of tacos and burritos than its Salvadoran fare, but there's certainly plenty of it around, some of it quite good.

Where Mexico has its tacos, El Salvador has its pupusas. At El Salvador Restaurant, the pupusas are cheap, big, and made fresh by hand. Place an order, and a minute later you'll start hearing the rhythmic slapping as the lady in the kitchen starts flattening out a ball of corn masa stuffed with cheese and finely chopped chicharrones into a wide, flat disk before slipping it onto a hot griddle. Just like with good grilled cheese, the key here is low, slow heat so that the interior fillings melt completely just as the exterior becomes nicely toasted. Like wide, flat hot pockets, if you will, only much, much better.

Pre-formed pupusas have a tendency to be oily or stale on the exterior, but the ones here come out soft, pliant, nicely toasted, and completely grease-free—until you cut them open and unleash the pork and cheese within, that is (they're also available in a zucchini or rice-stuffed version). On the side you'll find a small bowl of lightly pickled cabbage curtido, and a bright tomato salsa. For five bucks, it's a pretty filling lunch.

About the author: J. Kenji Lopez-Alt is the Chief Creative Officer of Serious Eats where he likes to explore the science of home cooking in his weekly column The Food Lab. You can follow him at @thefoodlab on Twitter, or at The Food Lab on Facebook.

El Salvador Restaurant

El Salvador Restaurant

2278 Mission St San Francisco CA 94110 4158646668

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