A Sandwich a Day: La Pepito at Tortas El Angel in Houston
In this great nation of ours, one could eat a different sandwich every day of the year—so that's what we'll do. Here's A Sandwich a Day, our daily look at sandwiches around the country. Got a sandwich we should check out? Let us know. —The Mgmt.
Given the name, it shouldn't come as any surprise that the specialty at Houston's tidy taqueria Tortas El Angel is a take on the ubiquitous Mexican sandwich, the torta. Located in an older strip center filled mostly with Latino businesses bordering the Heights, the menu has grown in the past few years, but it's the tortas that still seem to entice most customers. A consistent pleaser is the straightforward La Pepito ($5.99, large; $7.99, giant). Served on sturdy telera bread, the sandwich features juicy pieces of steak, strands of both raw and deeply burnished onion, slices of quickly sautéed fresh jalapeño, a few wedges of avocado, and some pieces of tomato. It's piquant, flavorful and, given the comparative heft of the recently made bread, a lot less messy than the usual local torta.
About the author: Mike Riccetti is a Houston-based food writer, Zagat editor and author of Houston Dining on the Cheap. He writes frequently about restaurants, food and drink, and occasionally less important topics. You can follow him on Twitter (@MikeRiccetti).