The menu describes the Pickled Vegetables ($10) as “inspired by past seasons.” Showcasing various pickling techniques, this bowl contains traditionally vinegared Thumbelina carrots, koji cucumbers (koji is a mold for fermentation, used to make things like sake, miso, and soy sauce), and fermented baby turnips with green garlic and black pepper.
Chef Dana Tough in the kitchen
Chef Dana Tough tames the fires in the kitchen of The Old Sage.
Inside The Old Sage
A look at the “lounge area” of The Old Sage.
Torchon of Foie Gras
Torchon of Foie Gras ($19) is a play on the letter P— it comes with donut peaches, pistachios, pine buds, and pumpernickel bread. The foie is smoked with pine, the plate contains peach gel, and the dish is finished with a drizzle of pine bud syrup.
Puffed Sour Bread
Puffed Sour Bread ($8) contains fennel pollen and caraway seeds, along with a sprinkling of Jacobsen sea salt flakes, and is finished with a drizzle of Matiz olive oil.
Roasted & Raw Gourds
Roasted & Raw Gourds ($12) is a study of contrasts. Baby sunburst squash, cucumbers, and zucchini come both raw and roasted, while cool yogurt counters the heat of Calabrian chiles. There’s also mint, compressed melon, and olive oil.
Pork Cheeks ($24) are smoked with lavender and plated on a purée of Yukon Gold and Russet potatoes with caraway and charred onion. Pickled beet slices cut the hearty flavors, and there’s an herbal addition from lavender mint.
A three-day sprout is the key to the soft texture of the Malted Emmer ($12), breaking the hull and eliminating the waxy feel of the grain. The malted emmer is then smoked and prepared risotto-style with vegetable stock, butter, parsley, and chives. Mountain cheese (Comté) is melted on top, along with thinly sliced apple.