Here is a view from the counter at the smoky interior of Saiseisakaba.
Saiseisakaba's Motsuni is a miso-flavored stew of intestines and other pig parts, topped with negi (Japanese leek).
Diaphragm and Heart
Here are skewers of pig diaphragm (quite fatty) and heart, served with karashi (spicy Japanese mustard).
This pork liver popped with minerally flavor.
At Saiseisakaba's Grill
Sitting at the counter provides a view of the grilling activities.
Small Intestines and Throat
These are skewers of the pig's small intestines (crispy on the outside and really soft on the inside) and throat (much more chewy texture than flavor).
This is a sashimi plate of cow's omasum, the third compartment of the stomach. Wonderfully chewy texture and flavored with marinated negi.
The Menu at Saiseisakaba
There's actually an English menu at Saiseisakaba, though not everything is on it (or available).
Saiseisakaba from the Street
You can stand and eat (and drink) inside or outside Saiseisakaba.
In contrast to Saiseisakaba, Rukumatokyo is more refined. Here's a look shortly after opening.
Amuse Bouche at Rukumatokyo
My meal at Rukumatokyo started with a small salad and consomme gel.
Quartet of Tastes
Clockwise, starting with the spoon: raw pork liver sashimi with natto and koji (earthy and delicious), pork uterus with daikon, sesame seeds, and vinegar (great texture), pork liver sashimi (one of my favorite bites of the night), and pig stomach kombu jime (kelp-infused for extra umami).
Rukumatokyo's Motsuni, but made with katsuo (bonito fish) soup instead of the usual miso-flavored stew. It's topped with miyoga and negi.
These creamy pig brains are coated with rice powder, cooked in butter, and served with balsamic sauce. The chef said the pig was alive that morning, so the brains could have been eaten raw as sashimi.
9 Pork Bites, Ready for the Grill
Top row (left to right): diaphragm (very tender), liver in caul fat (one of my favorites on the tray), tongue.
Middle row: throat (almost crunchy), house bacon, "pai" (mammary gland, chewy texture) with Japanese mustard spinach.
Bottom row: spleen with tare (like liver, but chewier), miso-flavored intestines (very soft), offal sausage.
Rukumatokyo Chef Takes Control
You can grill on your own, but the chef will help you get things just right.
Here's the cooked, smoky bacon, with delicious fat.
Here's a look at the offal-filled sausage slices.
The final course of the omakase meal at Rukumatokyo was a pork-less dessert: brownie-like chocolate cake, topped with purple potato mousse, cream, and sugar.