Eat This Now: Grits at The Kitchen Table in Omaha, Nebraska


[Photographs: Tory Putnam]

The Kitchen Table brings a welcome change to Omaha's bacon and egg-centric brunches. The spot, which opened in early June, offers dishes they call 'slow food fast,' featuring high-quality local ingredients. Case in point: the Sunday three-course prix fixe brunch menu ($15) features grits as a main, which are grown and ground in the Cornhusker state.

A thick layer of grits are spread across a plate, creating a smooth, polenta-like base without a hint of graininess. While grits appear as a side at lunch, on Sundays they're doctored up with a poached egg and three of The Kitchen Table's homemade ingredients: butter, buttermilk, and a dollop of creamy ricotta. Then they're topped with a few more seasonal ingredients— the current selection includes chopped scallions and blanched green beans, which counter the smooth consistency of the grits with a subtle crunch. The whole thing is finished with a nice kick of cracked black pepper.


The Kitchen Table prix fixe brunch spread.

The prix fixe begins with 'chips and dip' comprised of levain toast points and preserves, followed by a starter (try roasted beets with coriander yogurt, granola, and mint), and two other mains. While the grits are hearty enough to satisfy vegetarians and meat-eaters alike, I was happy that I ordered the side of juicy, thick-cut 'Canadian bacon,' a smoked and grilled pork loin with brown sugar and chili oil. Stick around until noon, when Bloody Marys are poured, and check out the reclaimed wood interior from the co-owner's family barn.

About the author: Tory Putnam lives in San Francisco, where she can frequently be found tasting and photographing food and drinks.

The Kitchen Table
1415 Farnam Street, Omaha, NE 68102 (map)


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