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Boston, MA: Great Sri Lankan String Hoppers at Biryani Park Food Truck

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Chicken string hopper biryani with watermelon-mango juice. [Photograph: Liz Bomze]

Between the official start of summer and the Boston food truck scene being bigger and better than ever (13 new trucks this season!), there's no better time to make a fuss over the Hub's mobile meal options. Behold, a summer's worth of food truck posts, starting now.

First up, Biryani Park—quite possibly the most underrated truck in the city. One of the most underrated restaurants, too. The Malden brick and mortar offers a range of South Indian and Indo-Chinese food, but specializes in Sri Lankan food. Their string hoppers—nests of steamed thin rice noodles often served with chicken curry, dal, chutney, and sambal—are killer.

What I didn't realize when I ordered from the truck for the first time was that string hoppers, a traditional Sri Lankan dish, can be served in a number of ways, including the version I had that was basically a biryani ($9.99): chopped up rice noodles sautéed with chicken, vegetables, and Indian curry spices.

The flavors were big and heady but well balanced, and what made it so nice to eat on a warm summer afternoon was the abundance of raw vegetables and herbs that get folded into the noodles—particularly the big slabs of cucumber and whole cilantro leaves—that cool and freshen the heavier chicken and noodles.

What also made it nice to eat: the glass of fresh-pressed watermelon-mango juice (3.99). You'll gawk at the price, but it outshined every other cold drink at the SoWa Sunday Market, including all the fancy lemonades.

Biryani Park Food Truck

Locations vary daily. See Facebook page for more information.
617-407-2682; Biryani Park Food Truck on Facebook

About the author: Liz Bomze lives in Brookline, MA, and works as the Senior Features Editor for Cook's Illustrated Magazine. In her free time, she freelances regularly for the Boston Globe, Boston Magazine, the Improper Bostonian, and Martha's Vineyard Magazine; practices bread-baking and canning; takes photos; reads; and watches baseball. Top 5 foods: fresh noodles, gravlax, sour cherry pie, burrata, ma po tofu.

Printed from http://www.seriouseats.com/2013/06/biryani-park-sri-lankan-food-truck-review-boston-ma.html

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