Choco-Nacho from 'Ultimate Nachos'

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[Photograph: Karen Wise]

The dessert chapter in Lee Frank and Rachel Anderson's Ultimate Nachos is short and sweet, as it should be. Around half of the sweets aren't nachos per se, but they have flavors in common, like corn and avocado. The other half are, of course, chip-based. For example, these chocolatey 'chos take a quick dip in semisweet ganache before being drizzled with goat's milk cajeta—aka caramel sauce with attitude. Instead of the usual mild sweetness of cream, goat's milk contributes tart, grassy depth to the sauce, transforming it from an ordinary dessert topping to a delicious dinner party curiosity.

Why I picked this recipe: Sweet, salty, and spicy, this simple dish hits all of the important dessert buttons.

What worked: Funky goat's milk cajeta and rich ganache are elegant foils to the salty-crunchy tortilla chip.

What didn't: As written, the cajeta is pretty thin. Good for drizzling, I suppose, but it would have a fuller caramel flavor if cooked twice as long. Just be sure to stir! And use a high-sided pot to avoid boil overs!

Suggested tweaks: I made the tortilla chips from scratch for this recipe, and I'd definitely do so again. Home fried chips are thicker, more crisp, and the perfect touch to an otherwise super easy recipe. If you can't get your hands on goat's milk, you can certainly go with cream (it'll be thicker) or whole cow's milk.

As always with our Cook the Book feature, we have five (5) copies of Ultimate Nachos to give away this week.

About the author: Kate Williams is a freelance writer and personal chef living in Berkeley, CA. She is a contributor to The Oxford American and Berkeleyside NOSH, and she blogs at cookingwolves.wordpress.com.

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