Ramp Week: Ramp Drop Biscuits

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Ramp Drop Biscuits


[Photograph: Anna Markow]

Before I decided to make dessert my career, I was into cooking in general and made creative dinners nightly. The first time I ever came upon ramps I snatched them up...but I don't remember what I did with them. Probably risotto, which I was obsessed with at the time (though mine was nowhere near as rampy as Kenji's). Other than observing their inevitable presence in the produce walk-in at the start of spring, I haven't encountered them much since then. But I married a cook from the other side of the kitchen, and he goes on Holy Grail-esque quests for ramps as soon as it starts to warm up outside.

For months he'd been telling me about some amazing ramp drop biscuits he had the recipe for, and when he returned with a bag full of the springy little shoots the other day, I got busy.

Biscuits are so neutral on their own that they make an awesome vehicle for the sweet, mild flavor of ramps. If your ramps are younger, earlier, skinnier little guys, you can thinly slice the bulb and add it right in. If not, use only the leaves (unless you want to caramelize the bulbs in a little butter first).

We enjoyed these with roast chicken and gravy, but they'd also be wonderful with just some nice butter or maybe even a bacon jam.

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