Serious Eats

Eat This Cheese: Coach Farms Triple Cream Goat Cheese

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[Photograph: @sstiavetti]

It's not often that I come across a cheese that makes me go, "Hrmmmm." I've tasted many unique cheeses in my dairy-based wanderings, and while many are worthy of a raised eyebrow, it's only occasionally that one changes the way I think about cheese in general.

I recently experienced this sensation with Coach Farm's Triple Cream goat cheese, a creamy yet sturdy cheese that twisted my noodle about how I perceive goat cheese. This little beauty has its fair share of creaminess, but its goaty beginnings make for a hearty cheese that doesn't necessarily vanish on your tongue like triple creams made from cow's milk. Instead, this curiously sweet-salty-tart cheese stands tall and firm, even when ripe, though it yields easily under the crick of a jagged crisp or a crusty slice. The outer creamline is lusciously fatty, while the inner paste is more chèvre-like in texture (but still plenty rich--it does contain a heaping dose of extra cream, after all).

As you can see from the image above, where I ripped open a wheel with two knives to reveal its craggy texture, there's still a touch of signature goaty chalk in this cheese, but it's covered by a blanket of soft, smooth milk fat. For a second you may even forget that you're eating a goat cheese, with its buttery flavor that hints at salt and grassy fields. But not for long.

Sure, there are other triple cream goat cheeses on the market, but Coach Farm's variety is one well worth begging your local cheesemonger to order. Today, if you can.

About the author: Stephanie Stiavetti is a writer and cookbook author in San Francisco. Stephanie's cookbook, Melt: the Art of Macaroni and Cheese, celebrates America's favorite dish by recreating it with small production, specialty cheeses. Her food blog, The Culinary Life, is a repository for all things comfort food related, from savory dinners to transcendental desserts.

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