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Classic British dishes updated for the modern American cook.

British Bites: Glamorgan Sausages

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[Photograph: Sydney Oland]

Closer to a fritter than what most of us think of as a sausage, these cheese and bread cakes are held together with egg and fried until the outside is crisp and the interior is soft and melted. You can serve these "sausages" as a side or a vegetarian main, but my favorite way to eat them is straight out of the hot oil dipped in mustard. With a cold pint of beer, of course.

Traditionally glamorgan sausages are made with Caerphilly cheese, a soft white cow's milk cheese from Wales that has a light, almost white color and crumbly texture. The flavor is mild but it has a slight sour tanginess. If you can find it, then by all means use it. If you can't, then use a combination of mild havarti or monterey jack and sharp old cheddar to get somewhere close. Whichever cheese you end up using, this dish is perfect for a simple lunch, or something to munch on alongside a few glasses of good beer.

About the author: Sydney Oland lives in Somerville, Mass. Find more information at sydneyoland.com (or read eatingnosetotail.com)

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