Sweet Potato Banh Mi
Crisp, tender, crunchy, rich, creamy, sweet, sour, spicy, this sandwich has got it all (and with no meat, to boot!).
Step 1: Make the Do Chua
Do chua (full recipe here) is the lightly pickled carrot and daikon slaw you find inside a Vietnamese sandwich (or occasionally served as a side dish). It's made by cutting carrots and daikon into thin julienne (a mandoline can help), and massaging them with salt and sugar until they go limp. I use a quarter cup sugar and a tablespoon of kosher salt for every quart of julienned vegetables (about a pound).
Once the vegetables are softened, I add a mixture of water and rice vinegar (a cup of water to a half cup of vinegar). The pickles can be used immediately, but will get better if you...
Pack it Up
... let them rest for at least a few days. I keep mine in a sealed mason jar in the fridge. Over the course of a few days, the vegetables will become more aromatic and pungent, while still retaining their crispness.
Step 2: Make the Ginger-Scallion Oil
Pour It Over
...pour it on over. The scallions and ginger will sizzle briefly, then settle down. Season the oil with salt and pepper. This stuff will keep in the fridge for weeks, and is excellent on all sorts of things. Sandwiches, eggs, meats, you name it.
Step 3: Gather Ingredients
Step 4: Dip'em
Frying the sweet potatoes in a tempura-like batter is the key to this sandwich. It adds texture to the mix, along with plenty of porous surfaces for that ginger-scallion oil to seep into. The key to a light tempura is to cut your flour with cornstarch or rice flour (to lower protein content and inhibit gluten development), and to use ice-cold soda water to moisten it. Gluten doesn't develop as well at cool temperatures, keeping the batter nice and light, while the bubbles from the seltzer further aerate and lighten it. For an extra crisp batter, you can substitute part of the seltzer water for vodka, which vaporizes faster and further inhibits gluten formation.
Step 5: Fry'em
Step 6: Drain
Step 7: Construct
Step 8: Eat
This is a heck of a lunch, whether you're a meat-eater or not.