Gallery: First Look: Hi Lo BBQ, San Francisco

Smoked and Sake-Braised Pork Belly ($12)
Smoked and Sake-Braised Pork Belly ($12)
This fatty-tender pork belly (about 1/4 lb is pictured) is cured overnight, then rolled, trussed, and smoked with rice wine for about 5 hours. Glazed with salty-sweet tare, the coils of pork belly are served with sesame seed toped rice vinegar pickles.

"The whole menu is a play on meat and pickles, which is a really common combination in the South," Ostler says. Another Asian-tinged example includes his grilled flanken-cut beef short ribs, served with kimchi.

St. Louis-Cut Spare Ribs ($13)
St. Louis-Cut Spare Ribs ($13)
Fall-off-the-bone pork ribs are treated with a simple coffee rub, and smoked for about four hours. They're served with a sweet, ketchup-like Texas red sauce and dill pickles.
Smoked Half Chicken ($13)
Smoked Half Chicken ($13)
Moist, smoke-rich chicken is topped with a swath of chermoula, a North African sauce comprised of cilantro and garlic.
Beef Brisket ($15)
Beef Brisket ($15)
Brisket is rubbed in salt and pepper, and smoked for about 12 hours. Or, as Ostler puts it, "It ain't done 'till it's done, when it's done it's done." Brisket is available in lean (pictured here) and fatty cuts. "That's where all the love goes," Ostler says of the rich fatty ends. "You're not supposed to eat a lot... it's meant to be rich and unctuous."
The whole brisket.
The whole brisket.
Rainbow Carrots ($6)
Rainbow Carrots ($6)
One of five side available, lightly charred rainbow carrots are tossed in miso brown butter.
Warm Dino Kale and Sweet Potato Salad ($10)
Warm Dino Kale and Sweet Potato Salad ($10)
Dino kale is tossed with ricotta salata, chili spiced pecans, pomegranate, and smoked sweet potatoes, in a ginger pomegranate vinaigrette.
Banana Whoopie Pie ($3 each)
Banana Whoopie Pie ($3 each)
The spongey cookies are topped with almonds and filled with a cream cheese frosting.
Pull-Apart Potato Rolls, dough stage.
Pull-Apart Potato Rolls, dough stage.
Around-the-clock smoking schedule.
Around-the-clock smoking schedule.
"She rests during service," Ostler says of his hard working smoker.
California white oak.
California white oak.
Ostler and Precious.
Ostler and Precious.