Slideshow: First Look: Hi Lo BBQ, San Francisco

Smoked and Sake-Braised Pork Belly ($12)
Smoked and Sake-Braised Pork Belly ($12)
This fatty-tender pork belly (about 1/4 lb is pictured) is cured overnight, then rolled, trussed, and smoked with rice wine for about 5 hours. Glazed with salty-sweet tare, the coils of pork belly are served with sesame seed toped rice vinegar pickles.

"The whole menu is a play on meat and pickles, which is a really common combination in the South," Ostler says. Another Asian-tinged example includes his grilled flanken-cut beef short ribs, served with kimchi.

St. Louis-Cut Spare Ribs ($13)
St. Louis-Cut Spare Ribs ($13)
Fall-off-the-bone pork ribs are treated with a simple coffee rub, and smoked for about four hours. They're served with a sweet, ketchup-like Texas red sauce and dill pickles.
Smoked Half Chicken ($13)
Smoked Half Chicken ($13)
Moist, smoke-rich chicken is topped with a swath of chermoula, a North African sauce comprised of cilantro and garlic.
The whole brisket.
The whole brisket.
Rainbow Carrots ($6)
Rainbow Carrots ($6)
One of five side available, lightly charred rainbow carrots are tossed in miso brown butter.
Warm Dino Kale and Sweet Potato Salad ($10)
Warm Dino Kale and Sweet Potato Salad ($10)
Dino kale is tossed with ricotta salata, chili spiced pecans, pomegranate, and smoked sweet potatoes, in a ginger pomegranate vinaigrette.
Pull-Apart Potato Rolls, dough stage.
Pull-Apart Potato Rolls, dough stage.
Around-the-clock smoking schedule.
Around-the-clock smoking schedule.
"She rests during service," Ostler says of his hard working smoker.
California white oak.
California white oak.