In this great nation of ours, one could eat a different sandwich every day of the year—so that's what we'll do. Here's A Sandwich a Day, our daily look at sandwiches around the country. Got a sandwich we should check out? Let us know. —The Mgmt.

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[Photo: Mike Riccetti]

Like the restaurant itself, the tortas at decade-old Maria Selma in Houston fly under the radar. The torta section is one of over a dozen on the good-sized menu, and when the taste hits for one of these Mexican-style sandwiches a humble taqueria usually comes to mind rather than a more polished place like this.

But the tortas are done very well here, like nearly everything else. The Al Pastor ($9.95)—featuring a judicious amount of marinated pork, a few shreds of lettuce, slices of tomato, slivers of avocado, and bits of onion—arrives in two halves, allowing for easier enjoyment; the pieces of pork and its associated sauce can be unruly sandwich participants. The big, light telara bun made in-house does admirable duty holding it together, though the bottom might get a touch soggy by the time you get to the second half. No matter, this is a satisfying sandwich, and another reason to visit this very adept neighborhood restaurant.

Maria Selma

1617 Richmond, Houston, TX 77006 (map)
713-528-4920
mariaselma.com

About the author: Mike Riccetti is a Houston-based food writer, Zagat editor and author of Houston Dining on the Cheap. He writes frequently about restaurants, food and drink, and occasionally some less important topics. You can follow him on Twitter (@MikeRiccetti).

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