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[Photograph: Jay Friedman]

At the new Tanglewood Supreme in the Magnolia neighborhood of Seattle, "fisherman to table" is the philosophy, with sustainable seafood the goal. This helps make the restaurant a "local seafood bistro" in more ways than one.

Take, for example, the Salmon Pastrami sandwich ($10). Tanglewood sources its salmon from Cape Cleare Fishery in nearby Port Townsend, which uses hook and line to catch the fish one at a time. They're flash frozen at sea and delivered in person to the restaurant. Chef Jeffrey Kessenich cures the salmon with sugar, salt, and spices, then cold smokes it for eight hours, letting it dry overnight.

The salmon pastrami comes on a Macrina Bakery rye pretzel roll, its caramelized top sprinkled with poppy seeds, sesame seeds, and some salt. The body of the roll is slightly chewy and tasty without overwhelming the salmon. Like lox but with texture you can really sink your teeth into, the salmon is savory and yet slightly sweet, with a bit of brininess spreading in the mouth and smokiness hitting the nose.

And what goes well with both pastrami and pretzel? Mustard, of course. Here, a smear of tangy horseradish mustard brightens the flavor, as does a smart choice of always-available pickled tomatoes. For fresh balance, the sandwich comes with a welcome side of arugula. Should you want more, a small fisherman's stew looks fine at five dollars, while a generous portion of root vegetable frites runs a reasonable three dollars.

Tanglewood Supreme

3216 W. Wheeler Street, Seattle, WA 98199 (map)
(206) 708-6235; tanglewoodsupreme.com

About the author: Jay Friedman is a Seattle-based freelance food writer who happens to travel extensively as a sex educator. An avid fan of noodles (some call him "The Mein Man"), he sees sensuality in all foods, and blogs about it at his Gastrolust website. You can follow him on Twitter @jayfriedman.

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