Bun Bo Hue at Hoang Lan
At Hoang Lan, the menu describes the Bun Bo Hue ($7, inclusive of tax, cash only) as “Vermicelli with pork hock, pork blood cake, beef tendon in hot and spicy soup.” Look closer and you’ll also find slices of onion, some herbs, and a couple of pork meatballs. Meanwhile, the side plate seems to vary visit-to-visit, but generally includes shredded cabbage, lettuce, banana blossoms, jalapeño, cilantro, bean sprouts, and lime—though last time there was lemon instead of lime. The soup has hints of lemongrass, chili (though only mildly spicy to me) and shrimp paste, along with an underlying depth that comes from many hours of beef bones simmering. The noodles are the thicker, round, rice vermicelli type, which are easy to grab with chopsticks.
Hoang Lan: 7119 Martin Luther King Junior Way South, Seattle, WA 98118 (map); 206-722-3876
Bun Mang Vit at Huong Binh
Huong Binh is the unsung hero of Vietnamese restaurants in Seattle. The broad menu is full of high quality items, including a variety of traditional Vietnamese soups. One, mi vit tiem, is a rich duck broth with braised duck right in the soup. This is served weekdays only; on Saturdays and Sundays, as part of the weekend specials, the duck comes out of the broth. That’s when you’ll see virtually every table with at least one order of Bun Mang Vit ($8.75, cash only). This duck broth soup, fairly mild in flavor, has rice noodles and bamboo. It’s served with a sizeable plate of “poached duck salad” that has lots of bone-in duck (the server may ask if you want the bones removed), peanuts, and shallots. You’ll likely find yourself pouring lots of the ginger nuoc mam on the duck, as the juiced-up fish sauce flavor is fabulous.
Huong Binh: 1207 South Jackson Street, Seattle, WA 98144 (map); 206-720-4907
Hu Tieu Nam Vang at Rainier Restaurant & BBQ
Anthony Bourdain stopped in at Rainier Restaurant & BBQ last year because of its reputation for having a wide variety of exotic meats on a special menu, including cobra, deer, and frog. (I once sampled a lot of the dishes, and afterward my table sported what looked like the apocalyptic aftermath of the bombing of the local Woodland Park Zoo.) But the regular menu has more standard fare, and that’s where I found Hu Tieu Nam Vang ($6.50). This dish is made with sai-fun noodles, also known as cellophane or glass noodles, as they are clear in color (well, perhaps light gray is a better description) when cooked. The menu says that it comes with ground pork, BBQ pork, shrimp, and “inner pork” (this turned out to be intestines), but it also had quail eggs, culantro, chives, green onion, squid, fishcakes, and celery. In fact, the light broth had strong Chinese celery notes, pleasant enough that I didn’t add much from the side dish of lime, jalapeño, and bean sprouts.
Mi Vit Tiem at Ba Bar
More upscale in décor and dish quality is Ba Bar. Combining street food and cocktail appeal, Ba Bar can feels like a private party, especially when it’s Wednesday Kung Fu Karaoke night or Friday Kung Fu Movie night. If you’re there for the refined food, you’ll find Mi Vit Tiem ($13) of interest. How does Ba Bar elevate this tender duck leg noodle soup? By using duck from renowned Maple Leaf Farms, and preparing duck leg confit for the dish. The soup is made even more sophisticated by the addition of longan, Chinese dates, shiitake mushrooms, and lots of chives. It’s got great depth of flavor.
Bun Oc at Tamarind Tree
At the Tamarind Tree, the lengthy menu can be challenging to navigate, especially if you’re seeking noodle soup, as there are sections named soup, specialty noodle soup, noodle soup, and specialty noodle in bowl or on platter. Once you find Bun Oc ($7.25 lunch, $9.50 dinner), typically called snail noodle soup, you’ll see that it’s instead referred to as “Escargot Meatballs Noodle.” Meatballs is an apt description, as in lieu of actual snails, a Tamarind Tree bowl has a half-dozen patties of pork and snail-meat floating in a pork and tomato broth (which I found somewhat subtle in flavor). The shredded morning glory and banana blossoms perk up the broth, though, as does the ginger sauce.
Mi Quang at The Lemongrass
Mi Quang ($8.75) is making its way to the top of my list of favorite Vietnamese soups, and the version at The Lemongrass is a good one. They call it “yellow noodle soup,” with the noodles made of rice and colored with the addition of turmeric. The soup comes with shrimp, pork, fishcakes, and crushed peanuts, along with the tell-tale, toasted sesame rice crackers atop the bowl. The broth has a seemingly creamy quality to it, and I love the varying textures of the ingredients in the bowl.
Banh Canh Dac Biet at Green Leaf
On the subject of tapioca noodles, Green Leaf serves them in a dish called Banh Canh Dac Biet, or Special Udon Noodles Soup) ($9.95). The “banh canh” noodles swell in size to resemble Japanese udon noodles—hence, the name. Like The Lemongrass’ banh canh tom cua, it has shrimp and crab meat. But it also has a pork hock and pork blood cubes, like Hoang Lan’s bun bo hue. The distinguishing factor, though, is the burnt onion flavor, which is intentional and a welcomed counterpoint to the slightly sweet broth.
Bun Mam at Green Leaf
Also at Green Leaf is a menu item with spelling that makes me smile: Bun Mam, or “Anchovery Noodles Soup” ($9.95). I expect such a soup to have a heady flavor from fermented anchovies, but while I’m told that Green Leaf uses anchovy extract, the broth is actually quite sweet. The menu references sapa fish as an ingredient, and though I’ve yet to get explanation as to what that is, I take note of the shrimp, squid, and sliced pork in the soup. Most interesting, though, is the use of eggplant in this dish, as well as the very soft, round rice noodles.