Serious Eats

Gammy Brown's Deviled Ham from 'The Great Meat Cookbook'

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[Photograph: Luca Trovato]

If your house is anything like mine around the holidays, there is always a baked ham (or two) hanging around in the days between Christmas and New Years. Sure, ham sandwiches (on Hawaiian rolls, natch) make a nice lunch for a few days in a row, but after a while, the thick slices lose their appeal and become a boring chore to plow through.

In The Great Meat Cookbook, Bruce Aidells presents a perfect solution to all of those porky leftovers: Deviled Ham (in this case, courtesy of his wife's Gammy Brown). For the uninitiated, deviled ham is a chilled mayo-rich salad akin to its chicken and egg brethren. Sure it's a bit retro, but there's nothing to say that retro can't taste good. Aidells' version builds complexity with softened shallots, prepared horseradish, and a generous scoop of diced pickles. And by pulsing the ham in the food processor, he presents a salad with a simultaneously chunky and smooth texture perfect for smearing onto both crackers and crudites—perfect for assuaging any palate fatigue.

Why I picked this recipe: I'm always looking for ways to creatively use up ham leftovers around the holidays.

What worked: Everything worked just fine here; I liked the salad seasoned as per the recipe, but tweaking the proportions of mayonnaise, horseradish, and mustard is easy if necessary.

What didn't: You've gotta be on the mayo-salad train to enjoy this dish.

Suggested tweaks: This salad tastes best after the flavors have had a chance to meld. If you have time, let it set in the fridge overnight before serving. For the absolute best version of deviled ham, make your own mayo from scratch.

As always with our Cook the Book feature, we have five (5) copies of The Great Meat Cookbook to give away this week.

About the author: Kate Williams is a freelance writer out of Berkeley, CA. She is a contributor to The Oxford American, Berkeleyside NOSH, and blogs at cookingwolves.wordpress.com.

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