Gammy Brown's Deviled Ham from 'The Great Meat Cookbook'
If your house is anything like mine around the holidays, there is always a baked ham (or two) hanging around in the days between Christmas and New Years. Sure, ham sandwiches (on Hawaiian rolls, natch) make a nice lunch for a few days in a row, but after a while, the thick slices lose their appeal and become a boring chore to plow through.
In The Great Meat Cookbook, Bruce Aidells presents a perfect solution to all of those porky leftovers: Deviled Ham (in this case, courtesy of his wife's Gammy Brown). For the uninitiated, deviled ham is a chilled mayo-rich salad akin to its chicken and egg brethren. Sure it's a bit retro, but there's nothing to say that retro can't taste good. Aidells' version builds complexity with softened shallots, prepared horseradish, and a generous scoop of diced pickles. And by pulsing the ham in the food processor, he presents a salad with a simultaneously chunky and smooth texture perfect for smearing onto both crackers and crudites—perfect for assuaging any palate fatigue.
Why I picked this recipe: I'm always looking for ways to creatively use up ham leftovers around the holidays.
What worked: Everything worked just fine here; I liked the salad seasoned as per the recipe, but tweaking the proportions of mayonnaise, horseradish, and mustard is easy if necessary.
What didn't: You've gotta be on the mayo-salad train to enjoy this dish.
Suggested tweaks: This salad tastes best after the flavors have had a chance to meld. If you have time, let it set in the fridge overnight before serving. For the absolute best version of deviled ham, make your own mayo from scratch.