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Snapshots from Istanbul: Market Tour with Hande Bozdogan, Istanbul Culinary Institute

Is there any better way to figure out the staples of life in another country than walking through a market? Over a week in Istanbul, I began to get a sense of how locals ate. But a stroll through a street market can tell you a lot at a quick glance. The pickle stands! The 30 tubs of olives! The bunches of hot peppers!

Balkabağı

Shops in Istanbul tend to hyper-specialize; you'll still walk down long streets of only metalworkers, or only electronic music shops, or rows of stores that only sell plastic trophies. (Yes, really.) And in that model, most of the market stalls just sell one or two things: you'll see a pumpkin stand; a tomato paste table; a chestnut man. (A few exceptions. What is that guy doing selling phyllo dough AND eggs? They're both used to make borek.)

Even familiar foods may seem different, here. Radishes the size of baseballs, but cucumbers half the size I'm accustomed to. Leeks so long that the men unloading them haul the bunches over their shoulders. And cabbages I'd need two hands to carry.

Hande Bozdogan, founder and director of the Istanbul Culinary Institute, showed me around a market in Fındıkzade, a neighborhood up the Golden Horn from the Old City.

Check out more photos of the market >>

About the author: Carey Jones is the Senior Managing Editor of Serious Eats. Follow her on Twitter (@careyjones).

Printed from http://www.seriouseats.com/2012/11/istanbul-market-tour-turkey.html

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