A Hamburger Today
Dinner for Two: Crunchy Rigatoni with Rosemary, Garlic, and Parmigiano Reggiano
You know when there's no food in the house? You're working all the time and didn't get a chance to go grocery shopping. Here in London, supermarkets are only open for a handful of hours, which I, being from New York, have forgotten every weekend since moving here 51 weekends ago.
Instead of going hungry this week, I did what all the TV chefs tell me to do: dive into that "well-stocked" pantry of mine. I recommend the challenge. It's like putting together a jigsaw puzzle, only you get to eat the puzzle at the end.
Found: pasta, breadcrumbs, almonds, garlic, Parmesan, and rosemary, which grows on my windowsill.
I blitzed together the crumbs, garlic, rosemary, Parmesan, and almonds, with a bit of butter and toasted them in a pan. Together, they made this dry, crisp, super-fragrant delicious thing. I set them aside, and boiled up the rigatoni, reserving some pasta water after draining for an old French cooking school trick: a sauce called monté au beurre. Just put a cup of pasta water, full of salt and starch, back in the pan over high heat, and whisk in some cold butter. It creates a light, but milky, sauce, which perfectly contrasting the dryness of those crumbs.
Then it was time to toss the rigatoni into the light butter sauce and top with the crumbs and a bit of extra Parm (of course) and torn rosemary leaves.
Talk about a Frankenstein creation. But it is so good, different, and proof that unless you're one of those people who keep only mustard in their fridge (which I totally get, by the way), it's always possible to cobble together something great.
About the author: Kerry Saretsky is the creator of French Revolution Food, where she reinvents her family's classic French recipes in a fresh, chic, modern way.