Cooking fish "unilaterally" is something I haven't done since cooking school, but I thought, that's stupid. It's one of those things you learn in cooking school that is actually easier than everyday cooking. All it means is that you sear the fish in a pan without ever turning it. Because you need to leave the fish in the pan for a while to cook it all the way through, the side searing in the pan develops a thick, delicious golden crust. It's fantastic, and it couldn't be easier.
To go with the cod, which I find rather mild, I make a bed of simple creamed baby leeks, which serve as both sauce and side dish. This is French cooking at its best—a few ingredients, a simple but inspired technique. Parfait.
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About the author: Kerry Saretsky is the creator of French Revolution Food, where she reinvents her family's classic French recipes in a fresh, chic, modern way.