If you're a fan of barbecue sampler plates and want it all in a sandwich, the Smokestack ($13) at Seattle's new Kickin' Boot Whiskey Kitchen is just for you. This is a behemoth of a sandwich, one which The Who would likely describe as "Meaty Beaty Big and Bouncy."
My first bite was just a mingling of the meats, with nothing particularly discernible. Subsequent bites, though, pulled more of one meat than another, making me say things like, "Ah, that's the brisket." Fatty and flavorful, the brisket was my favorite part of the sandwich. The pulled pork was moist and tender, though less flavorful than the brisket, while the jalapeño and cheddar sausage was mild in terms of chile and cheese.
The Smokestack's meatiness is a beauty to behold, but I'd welcome bolder flavors. While the horseradish slaw is a nice inclusion, the sandwich comes with house sauce and white sauce, making it hard to take advantage of the three other sauces that come in the tray of five on each table. As the sauces are more sweet than spicy, chile lovers like myself will want to lobby for sauce with more zing to it.
I like the use of a potato bun, though once you pull the stick out and take that first bite, the magnitude of the meat makes it hard to hold the sandwich together, with slaw and sauce dripping out the sides. I'd never want to do the dainty thing and use a knife and fork at a barbecue joint, though I do admit deploying a little pull-and-dip technique at times—tearing a small handful of bun and meat and dragging it through a choice of sauces.
Kickin' Boot Whiskey Kitchen
About the author: Jay Friedman is a Seattle-based freelance food writer who happens to travel extensively as a sex educator. An avid fan of noodles (some call him "The Mein Man"), he sees sensuality in all foods, and blogs about it at his Gastrolust website. You can follow him on Twitter @jayfriedman.