A Hamburger Today

A Sandwich a Day: Porchetta at Lecosho in Seattle

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[Photograph: Jay Friedman]

Go to Lecosho, halfway up the Harbor Steps in Seattle, and you'll probably notice the pig logo on the sandwich board outside the restaurant. And when you see that same pig on the menu, you'll likely bypass satisfying sandwiches like the Tuna Melt or Crusted Catfish and instead be subliminally steered to something more porky.

Nothing's much porkier than the Lecosho Porchetta sandwich ($12, with choice of soup or salad). When I first tried it in 2010, shortly after the restaurant opened, the porchetta was piled in a funky way and partly inedible, making the sandwich somewhat unwieldy, with buttermilk slaw and spicy tomato sauce spewing out. Now it features a smooth slice of moist and flavorful porchetta that fits nicely on the grilled ciabatta bun.

The problem is with the outer ring of pork skin. It's got a nice crackling crust, but it's still terrifically tough in spots, making it difficult to bite and chew and forcing the eater to leave behind some unchewable parts. (This comes with great dismay to this pork belly lover.) As a result, the gnawing is inelegant and a hazard to the sandwich's integrity, making it a fork-and-knife affair. That's a shame for a sandwich that's otherwise seductively fatty, salty, and delicious.

Lecosho

89 University Street, Seattle, WA 98101 (map)
206) -623-2101; lecosho.com

About the author: Jay Friedman is a Seattle-based freelance food writer who happens to travel extensively as a sex educator. An avid fan of noodles (some call him "The Mein Man"), he sees sensuality in all foods, and blogs about it at his Gastrolust website. You can follow him on Twitter @jayfriedman.

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