[Photograph: Blake Royer]

It took me a long time to get over my childhood memory of canned beets (I'd guess that lots of people avoid them altogether for years, like I did). But when beets are simply cooked and especially when they're in season, the earthy sweetness is subtle and delicious.

Why I Picked This Recipe: Knowing that beets' seasonality and hot summer weather tend to coexist, I liked that this recipe cut them into wedges to boil rather than roast, saving me the extreme heat of turning on the oven.

What Worked: Because it takes quite a while to prep and peel the beets, and because they're boiled instead of roasted, this recipe smartly relies on the slow caramelization of a couple large onions. It takes advantage of the prep time, and it adds a sweet, richly flavored base for the pasta that makes up for the fact that the beets aren't roasted.

What Didn't: The recipe didn't specify to thinly slice the onions, but It should have, which would have sped it up considerably. I've changed the instructions and estimated times accordingly.

Suggested Tweaks: Golden beets aren't essential if you don't mind pink pasta. And if you can't find beets with good greens on them, a bunch of Swiss chard is the perfect substitute.

Adapted from Epicurious.

About the author: Blake Royer is a food writer, photographer, and filmmaker based in Chicago; he has been writing for Serious Eats since 2007. You can follow him on Twitter @blakeroyer.

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