The Cubanita Torta ($12) at La Condesa in St. Helena is exactly what you don't want to pair with wine—which, after a day in Napa, may be a good thing. Smoked Berkshire ham, slow-roasted kurobuta pork belly, arugula, Swiss cheese, habanero mustard, pickled jalapeños, and toasted garlic are piled and pressed on ciabatta, with the spicy mustard and vinegary tang from the pickles and onions dominating. The smokey ham provides a good base for the sandwich, but the pork belly's flavor is almost entirely lost. A nice side salad provides a good accompaniment to the rich sandwich, along with a pile of fresh-tasting potato chips. Next time? We're putting the chips on the sandwich.