[Photograph: Jay Friedman]

Who needs bread when you've got perfectly fried breading, like the type you'll find on the green tomato that forms the base of Yardbird's Fried Green Tomato BLT ($12)? That tomato is a generous one, sliced thick, but it's not the only tomato that appears on this "sandwich." A brilliantly red tomato jam packs umami punch, pulling the whole thing together. The "bacon" is a juicy square of pork belly giving fatty meatiness, and greens freshen up the affair.

But hang on. Perhaps Yardbird should add PC to the BLT name, as this modern-Southern restaurant adds house-made pimento cheese, giving the BLT a sharp, creamy, and peppery kick.

The BLT falls in the "Small Shares" section of the menu, and you actually get three per platter, lunch or dinner. Hog all three, and adding something like a seasonal soup will suffice for a filling dinner. But if you decide to share your BLTs, you can order something like Swine Steak Frites ($21) and pig out on char-grilled pork skirt steak with grit frites and crispy pig ears for a full-fledged porcine feast.

Yardbird Southern Table & Bar

1600 Lenox Ave, Miami Beach, FL 33139 (map)
(305) 538-5220; runchickenrun.com

About the author: Jay Friedman is a Seattle-based freelance food writer who happens to travel extensively as a sex educator. An avid fan of noodles (some call him "The Mein Man"), he sees sensuality in all foods, and blogs about it at his Gastrolust website. You can follow him on Twitter @jayfriedman.


Comments can take up to a minute to appear - please be patient!

Previewing your comment: