Sunday Supper: Cioppino

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[Photograph: Sydney Oland]

A San Francisco classic, this stew is traditionally made with the catch of the day. If you are in the mood for this seafood stew, and don't live near the ocean, just go to the fish counter and get a selection of whatever looks good. Generally you're looking for some sort of crab, another shellfish or two, and a firm-fleshed white fish. Although this recipe calls for chicken stock, if you are the sort who keeps leftover shrimp shells for a rainy day, substituting shrimp stock can add a depth and sweetness that's subtle but entirely worth the effort.

My favorite accompaniment to this dish is a loaf of sourdough, a green salad and a bottle of light red wine—but as always, use your own judgment and preference to guide you.

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About the author: Sydney Oland lives in Somerville, Mass.. Find more information at (or read

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