Clasico Rincon Limeno. [Photographs: Elizabeth Bomze]

Last Wednesday morning I stood at my refrigerator, eating leftover ceviche with my hands. The dayboat cod I'd gotten from my Cape Ann Fresh Catch community supported fishery program the day before was so glisteningly fresh that I couldn't bear to subject it to heat. Instead, I tossed it with some lemon and lime juice, fresh chile, thin-sliced shallot, olive oil, and cilantro. Sublime. If such luxuries were more readily available at breakfast time, I'd banish cereal from my pantry altogether.

I thought I had it in me to wait two weeks until my next fish share came in, but then the weather got warm, and nothing says warm-weather eatin' like a plate of almost-raw seafood. Pretty soon I was Googling the menu at East Boston's beloved Rincon Limeno, well-known as the best spot in the city for authentic Peruvian ceviche. The car practically drove itself over there.

The only decision I had to make when I got there.. Did I want the all-ceviche platter or the house specialty, the Clasico Rincon Limeno ($20): a martini glass brimming with cured seafood surrounded by mounds of jalea, or batter-fried seafood? My eyes being (slightly) larger than my stomach, you can probably guess which one I opted for.

The twofer packs enough ocean plunder for two hungry people to eat heartily. Fish through the lemony, garlic- and chile-laced (yes, you want it picante) marinade and you'll recover baby octopus, shrimp, grouper chunks, and calamari so fresh that it practically snaps with each bite.

For the jalea, meanwhile, those four elements take a turn in a thick-but-lightweight batter that fries up flaky, grease-free, and golden brown, with an accompanying pile of nutty fried Cuzco corn kernels, steak-fry-thick fried cassava planks, and refreshing tomato salad. A bottle of Heinz showed up with the platter, but I can't imagine why; the mayonnaise-y sauce, plus the lime slices and red and green chile purees that come with each order, make perfect condiments.

I have some leftovers in the fridge. Time for breakfast.

Rincon Limeno

409 Chelsea Street, East Boston MA (map); 617-569-4942
rinconlimenorestaurant.com