Grillmaster Eric and his setup. [Photographs: Elizabeth Bomze]

Last Friday's snowstorm might have been the worst April Fool's joke to hit Boston in years, but at least it was over in time for grillmaster Eric Meyer to haul out his oversized Weber kettle grill for Formaggio Kitchen's weekly Saturday sidewalk barbecue.

Meyer's brazen grill schedule stretches from the end of March through October, and there is plenty of reason to brave the colder months in line with fellow barbecue lovers; your nose will indicate as much as you come within blocks of the Huron Village market.

Barbecue chicken.

Pit-baked barbecue beans.

He starts cooking meat on Thursday, when he lights a fistful of coals, piles on some soaked wood, and smokes Texas ribs, chicken, pork, brisket, and lamb for six hours. On Friday, he finishes cooking the meat, and by 11 a.m. on Saturday has a full spread of food to peddle: ribs ($25 full/$12 half); half chickens ($10); half-pound Pearl hotdogs stuffed into hollowed-out baguettes ($7) and smaller links from Niman Ranch ($5); brisket ($10 large/$6 small); kettles of spicy pulled chicken ($10 large/$6 small), pork ($10 large/$6 small), and lamb ($12 large/$8 small) ready to be packed into Iggy's brioche or ciabatta buns with caramelized onions and a ladle of their house barbecue sauce; pit-baked navy beans spiced with the same house rub that's applied to all the meats ($4); lightly mayonnaise-d coleslaw ($3); and spicy cornbread that they'll throw over the coals until the edges are crisped up ($1).

Lamb sandwich.

My best advice: Go early, 'cause the menu gets shorter as the day goes on. This was the first time I arrived in time for a lamb sandwich, and the slightly gamey, rosemary-scented shreds were well worth the early trip.

Formaggio Kitchen

244 Huron Avenue, Cambridge, MA 02138 (map)
617-354-4750; formaggiokitchen.com