In this great nation of ours, one could eat a different sandwich every day of the year—so that's what we'll do. Here's A Sandwich a Day, our daily look at sandwiches around the country. Got a sandwich we should check out? Let us know. —The Mgmt.
[Photograph: Lauren Sloss]
It seems against nature that a sandwich with french fries on it could possibly taste fresh, maybe even light. But somehow, the Pittsburgh transplants behind North Beach staple Giordano Bros. manage to make it work. It doesn't hurt that the hand-cut, skin-on french fries are respectable in their own right, nor that the thinly sliced meats come from Molinari's up Columbus.
Really, the secret of this sandwich is in the coleslaw: a crunchy, peppery, vinegar doused mix that would be insulted if compared to its mayo-laden cousins. Any of the meat choices will do the sandwich justice (and come topped with both the slaw and provolone cheese), but I'm a fan of the smoked turkey ($6.75). It packs an excellent flavor while nicely complementing the slaw; top it with an egg (for 50 cents extra) and you'll get an extra dose of richness without making the sandwich too busy.
The bread, thickly sliced white bread from the French Italian Bakery on Union, does excellent work holding together what might otherwise be an epic mess of a sandwich, and manages to be impressively soft with none of the cloying sweetness of lesser white breads.
An homage to Pittsburgh, to be certain, but with all the best California sensibilities.