The Best Taco Near 24th Street?
El Gallo Giro ($1.50)
The Tortilla: 7/10 Soft, though slightly dry
The Filling: 15/15 Textbook carnitas—tender, flavorful, juicy, and nicely crisped. Equally good were the carne asada and roasted chicken. Into pork fat? The chicharrones are thick slices of pork belly cooked down with beans. Delicious.
The Toppings: 5/5 The salsa is bright, fresh, complex, and hot, while the onions and cilantro (applied sparingly) are as freshly cut as you could hope for. Ditto for the radish chunks.
El Gallo Giro, Truck parked from 10:30 to 5, Monday through Saturday on 23rd Street and Treat Avenue, San Francisco, CA 94110; map
Taqueria Vallarta ($1.50)
The Tortilla: 8/10 Cooked on the circular comal, helping it soak in the collected juices from the steaming meats around it.
The Filling: 13/15 Very flavorful and all perfectly cooked. The meats are kept in close proximity to each other, so that they feed off of each others' steam slowly building flavor. Extra crisp is the way to go.
The Toppings: 5/5 The only place that offered grilled or fresh onions, along with grilled jalapeños, you can also help yourself to ultra-fresh cilantro, onions, and great salsa (the green is better).
Taqueria Vallarta, 3039 24th Street; San Francisco, CA 94110-4131; (415) 826-8116; map
La Espiga de Oro ($2.35 per taco)
The Tortilla: 6/10 A little dry, bordering on crunchy in parts.
The Filling: 11/15 Love the chicharrones, though the carnitas were slightly undercooked and chewy and the chorizo, while juicy, were overwhelmed with too much cumin and cinnamon.
The Toppings: 4/5 Plenty of fresh cilantro, and punchy salsa.
La Espiga de Oro, 2916 24th Street; San Francisco, CA 94110-4127; (415) 826-1363; map
La Palma ($2.39 for machine-made, $2.99 for hand-made tortillas)
La Palma, 2884 24th St; San Francisco, CA 94110-4233; (415) 647-1500; map
Casa Sanchez ($2.30 per taco)
The Tortilla: 7/10 properly softened, but minimal charring
The Filling: 10/15 The tastiest Al Pastor we had, and beefy carnitas that were chopped into tender submission (they could have used more charring).
The Toppings: 3/5 Make sure you ask for none of the bland salsa or lettuce that come by default, instead adding onions, cilantro, and the better hot salsa yourself at the bar.
Casa Sanchez, 2778 24th Street; San Francisco, CA 94110; (415) 282-2402; map
El Farolito ($1.95 per taco)
The Tortilla: 4/10 Soft, but weak—they collapsed half way through eating.
The Filling: 7/15 Nicely charred carne asada and tender, flavorful carnitas (they needed some more crisping), but the lengua tasted of stale refrigerator.
The Toppings: 4/5 Excellent salsa, and fresh onions and cilantro.
El Farolito, 2779 Mission Street; San Francisco, CA 94110; (415) 826-4870; map
La Gallinita ($1.50 per taco)
The Tortilla: 3/10 Flexible and tender, but stale around the ages.
The Filling: 5/15 Both the carnitas and lengua are tender, but bland, gristly, and completely lacking in any crisp bits. Several chunks of bone and connective tissue.
The Toppings: 2/5 There's a serve-yourself salsa and topping bar, but the salsas aren't really worth the effort of scooping.
La Gallinita, 2989 24th Street; San Francisco, CA 94110-4133; (415) 826-4600; map
El Tonayenses ($1.75 per taco)
The Tortilla: 2/10 Small, dry, and unheated
The Filling: 3/15 Carnitas and Carne asada are both intensely garlic flavored. It tastes steamed more than anything.
The Toppings: 4/5 Fresh cilantro and onions, and a flavorful salsa, tired lemon slices and radishes that looked days old.
El Tonayense, 3150 24th Street, San Francisco, CA 94110; (415) 550-9192; map