Wagyu Beef Brisket Sauerbraten ($16/30)
Neither as sour, nor as expensive as the name would imply, the Wagyu Brisket Sauerbraten is nevertheless as rich as you'd expect. An odd but really satisfying blend of rustic food tempered with perfect technique.
Of the four house-baked breads offered, the 9-grain was the best. All of them had good sourdough flavor and a nice rustic crumb, though we didn't detect much squid ink flavor in the Sepia-nori version (despite the dark black swirl running through it).
Georgia Candy Roaster Pumpkin Soup ($9)
Sweet with warm spices and a pinch of bee pollen, the sprinkle of caramelized shallots makes it reminiscent of a Vadouvan spice blend.
Venison Ragú ($14/26)
The pasta here is springy, dense, and really fun to chew on, sparingly sauced with a thick spoonful of sweet and musky wild boar and venison "Tyrolean" ragoût flavored with chocolate and wine.
Hand-Made Burrata ($15/28)
The only weak dish of the evening, though it's in no part due to the fantastic locally made burrata, nor the crisp vegetable salad. It was the doughy, sourdough flatbread that fell a little short of the mark. We'd have preferred the salad on its own.
Clothbound Cheddar ($10)
There's a single, well-curated cheese each night in lieue of a cheese course. I like that format because it saves you from the feelings of inadequacy that inevitably occur when forced to pick from the average cheese list, which these days seem to be designed specifically to consist only of cheeses you've never heard of.